When it comes to learning how to embrace your natural curl, Sydney-based stylist Barney Martin is your man. The R&Co Ambassador was in Auckland for a very swift visit, when editor Trudi Brewer quizzed him on the latest hair trend - air drying hair.
There is not much celebrity stylist Barney Martin does not know about hair. He's had 25 years styling the world's most beautiful women, Kate Moss and Pia Muehlenbeck at the top of that list. This perfectionist is a joy to watch when wielding a pair of scissors and makes no bones in telling me that the best style for your hair is one that works with your natural curl. Running his two eponymously named salons in Sydney's Surrey Hills and Darlinghurst, which were recently voted some of the best salons in the world by Harpers Bazaar U.S, Martin is also Australia's ambassador for U.S. brand R&Co (short for Rogue and Company). A brand created by legendary session stylists Garren, Thom Priano and Howard McLaren. Martin's role is one centred around education, and he believes working with the R&Co range is a hairdresser's dream. "The products do what they say they will do, and tick all the boxes when it comes to being natural, yet fashion forward. Every product is paraben, sulphate (SLS or SLES), petrolatum and mineral oil-free. They're also vegetarian, cruelty and gluten-free and most importantly colour-safe, which is what people want from hair products today." In Auckland for 24 hours, working with the team at Stephen Marr I got to sit in on the session.
Here are Martin's thoughts on this season's hottest hair trend.
Why is air drying hair hot right now?
There has been a real shift toward natural, healthy looking hair. With that comes air drying, and with a brand like R&Co, the focus is on technology that allows you to encourage natural movement while conditioning the hair.
Do you still need to add heat?
Not necessarily, as long as your hair is cut correctly to suit the texture and it's in good condition, you can work with the natural movement, and you won't need to do any blow drying.
What about other tools, like brushes and tongs etc?
Your fingers make clever tools, apply the product to damp hair, and then twist random sections around your fingers, working with the fall of the curl helps eliminate the need for any tools. If you have long hair, apply product and then go to bed with it damp. Or twist your hair into a top knot, while it's wet, sleep on it and in the morning take it down and you will see your natural movement. If your hair is cut to suit its texture, styling should be easy.
So is layering more relevant now, when it come to the cut?
It's integral to embracing the natural movement in your hair.
Some women are a bit scared of layering, how much should you have?
A good way to incorporate layers into the hair without freaking people out is to add graduation to the cut. A variation of a graduated bob is layering, and it helps create movement. Slicing longer layers is perfect for long, straight hair. I am a fan of razor cutting, especially now, for enhancing natural movement.
Does razor cutting encourage frizz?
It can do if it's done incorrectly, aside from extremely fine hair, most hair textures suits razor cutting; it's great on very strong, straight hair, the invisible, seamless layers, help add texture.
So what's your favourite product cocktail for air drying hair?
It starts with shampoo, Cactus Texturising Shampoo, is great for people with fine hair, who don't like that feeling of product. It's a one-stop shop, shampoo, no conditioner and no styling products, it adds texture and grit. If you have sensitised hair, (highly coloured) it can leave hair feeling a bit raspy, so then you can add a little High Dive Styling Cream, once hair is dry.
What's your desert island R&Co product?
Bad Lands Dry Shampoo Paste. Rub it into your hands until it becomes liquid, and then apply it to roots of the hair, and work it through to the ends. It will reset as a dry shampoo - it's brilliant.
Finally what other trends are hot this winter?
Fringes, short and choppy with a French-inspired bob. If you have a bob and you want an update, a short fringe is everything. And colour contouring. The next step up from Ombre, this is a free-hand colour technique, working with the shape of the face, using dark and light shades to create a bespoke colour to suit complement facial features. The colour follows the contours of the face shape to create a flattering, natural-looking glossy result. And dare I say it, perming is starting to emerge in London salons, it's a very natural-looking result, so what this space.
Martin's favourite R&Co products:
R&Co High Dive Moisture + Shine Crème, $46. R&Co Cactus Texturizing Shampoo, $49. R&Co Bad Lands Dry Shampoo Paste, $46.