There's no denying that ageing gracefully is empowering. That said, we live in a world that is obsessed with youth and beauty. So, when I got the opportunity to chat with ‘The Skin Guru,’ Lauren Harding, a therapist top Auckland plastic surgeon Dr Tristan de Chalain trusts, I was keen to share her age erasing advice, says editor Trudi Brewer.
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The Skin Guru, Lauren Harding
A dream team, top plastic surgeon and a skin guru, that collaborate to help women look their best at any age.
Dr Tristan de Chalain
You're known in the beauty industry as the 'skin guru,' why?
After contributing to a beauty story, a magazine editor coined the term for me, and I thought it would be an excellent name for my business. With 30 years' experience in both beauty therapy and working in medical practices with top plastic surgeons like Dr Tristan de Chalain, "The Skin Guru ' was born a decade ago.
Every age brings a new skin challenge, in your 20's it's open pores and breakout, how can we manage this?
Refining open pores can be managed by manipulating the skin and regulating oil flow. Products that contain vitamin A balance oil flow and firm the skin around the pores, and then dealing with congestion involves products that contain vitamin A, antioxidants, and chemical exfoliants such as AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), and BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids).
What are your thoughts on scrubs vs. chemical exfoliants?
Both have their place. However, exfoliants are overused based on the misconception that they will help with breakouts. Scrubs can be aggressive with uneven granules, and while they can give the skin an instant glow, many people experience what we term an 'ímpaired barrier' with overuse. Enzyme masks are a gentler approach, and offer an even result, while vitamin A can create a metabolic exfoliation, which clears and improves skin health.
“Ingredients such as vitamins A, C, and antioxidants, are fundamental for healthy skin, and the sooner you start including them in your skincare regime, the better.”
What ingredients should you look out for in skincare when you hit your 30's?
Most New Zealanders have experienced significant sun damage by their 30s. Along with good sun protection, ingredients such as vitamins A, C, and other antioxidants, are fundamental for healthy skin, and the sooner you start including them in your skincare regime, the better.
What are your thoughts on dermal rollers? How do they benefit the skin?
The key is the length of the needle in the roller. DIY roller needles should be the depth of 0.1ml to 0.2 ml to create channels at the skin's surface to allow active skincare to absorb. For a professional skin service, such as collagen induction therapy, needles need to be between 0.5 ml to 1.5ml to improve fine lines, skin texture, and reduce pore size.
What other treatments are on offer to stimulate collagen renewal?
Various treatments stimulate collagen through a 'wound healing' effect; (deliberately creating a wound to force the skin into repair and to lay down new collagen), such as lasers, peels, which create healthy uniform collagen. Needling is one of the best forms of collagen induction, however, there are others such as peels and lasers.
What about dullness, and brown spots, in your 40’s?
Every time you go into the sun, UV rays stimulate the skin to protect itself by producing melanin or pigment. To regulate this effect, wear sunscreen, reapplying every two hours. Also, supplement the skin with topical vitamin A to reverse the damage and vitamin C to protect against further stimulation and activation of the melanocyte cells in the dermis, where pigment is made. There are also ingredients known as melanin transfer inhibitors and tyrosinase inhibitors, when used daily they too can be effective. In terms of professional treatments, IPL can be useful for correcting superficial pigment, but for deeper pigment, vitamin A peels and skin needling works well.
“All topical peptides are a fabulous addition to your skincare regime but should be in addition to vitamins A and C, not a replacement.”
Dr Aspect Age ManagementKit, $285.
To smooth the look of fine lines, wrinkles, and an uneven skin tone, the Dr Aspect Starter Kit is your day and night beauty routine. The high-performance, yet gentle formulations contain all those active ingredients, such as vitamins A and C, amino acids, and cellular antioxidants, that work together to help you maintain a healthy youthful-looking complexion at any age. The range of Dr Aspect is available at Dr Tristan de Chalain practice at Level 2, OneHealth Building, 122 Remuera Road, Auckland, where you can have a skincare routine prescribed to suit your specific needs.
Dr Aspect Age Management Kit, $285.
What about peptides? Do they work for ageing skin?
Peptides do a multitude of things (depending on the type of peptide) for the skin. Some stimulate regeneration and repair of the skin cell; some will relax the muscle nerve endings for a subtle 'botox' type effect to soften lines. While others are anti-inflammatory. All topical peptides are a fabulous addition to your skincare regime but should be in addition to vitamins A and C, not a replacement.
Hyaluronic acid is touted as a brilliant moisture magnet, what other humectants work in the same way to hydrate the skin?
It's the most effective water-binding ingredient known to the skincare industry and is most efficient in attracting and retaining water in the skin. It’s important to remember that vitamin A also stimulates the skin to produce hyaluronic acid, while antioxidants restore and preserve the lipid barrier.
What skincare ingredients does your skin need when you're going through menopause or you’re 50+?
Skin is skin whatever age and requires the same nutrients. However, as oestrogen levels decrease with menopause, skin thins and hydration reduces. Whatever skincare you are using may absorb more effectively, but can also be more reactive. Focus on hydration and phytoestrogen (plant-based oils that mimic oestrogen in the body) enhancing ingredients.
“A surgeon of Dr Tristan De Chalin calibre has an exceptional understanding of genetics and the ageing process and takes a subtle approach to cosmetic surgery.”
Skincare can only do so much in the war on ageing; you work closely with Dr Tristan de Chalain; how does his work complement yours?
Skin is affected by our extrinsic ageing and the environment. While it's challenging to change skin that is severely damaged by UV exposure or chronological or internal ageing, a face and neck lift can help from a skilled surgeon like Dr Tristan de Chalain. However, that face and neck lift will look considerably more natural if the skin is healthy and in good condition, it also speeds up the healing time post-surgery and helps with the longevity of the face lift.
Most women have a 'less is more' approach to cosmetic medicine, what treatments do you think Dr Tristan de Chalain offers to rewind the clock subtly?
An upper or lower blepharoplasty. It can dramatically impact the look of the eyes without too much downtime, or no general anaesthetic is required. In saying that a surgeon of Dr Tristan De Chalin calibre has an exceptional understanding of genetics and the ageing process and takes a subtle approach to cosmetic surgery.
If there was an anti-ageing pill we could pop, what would you put in the formula?
I'm not a scientist, but I'm guessing it would involve something that would slow down telomere shortening (ends of the DNA strands). This shortening eventually leads to disease and cell death. I guess it would have many 'super" antioxidants in it to do that and or an oral sunscreen we could all start taking at birth.