Even a seasoned beauty writer like me struggles to find the perfect foundation match, which is why I have a drawer full of almost the right colour - does that sound familiar? Here to help nail your makeup shade and get a luminous finish we asked Sydney-based makeup artist Leah Baines for her top tips, says Editor Trudi Brewer.
Image @iliabeauty
Makeup artist Leah Baines at work.
“Keep your makeup brushes clean, it’s quick and easy. Wash them with shampoo, once the water runs clear, squeeze out the excess, and then lay the brushes over a bench to allow the bristles air dry. ”
An expert in creating a flawless-looking finish with foundation, makeup artist Leah Baines says finding the perfect colour starts with understanding your skin’s undertone. “The best way to choose your perfect foundation shade is by first knowing your undertone, and then selecting a shade that is closest to the colour of the skin on your face, not your hand or wrist or neck,” she adds, “Always test on your face, the undertone is the colour from underneath the surface of your skin; and here are the three - cool, warm, and neutral. A cool undertone is generally associated with hints of pink and blue. A warm undertone is more peachy and golden. Neutral is a mixture of the two,” says Baines. To make sure you have a foundation that looks great on your skin regardless of the season Baines says, “Aways have a summer and a winter shade, which I mix or keep separate depending on the seasons as our skin never stays one colour all year round.”
Best way to apply liquid foundation to get a flawless finish?
“I apply liquid foundation with a fluffy brush like IT Cosmetics Heavenly Luxe Complexion Perfection Brush #7, $79. It buffs the foundation seamlessly into the skin. If the liquid foundation appears to be sitting on the skin, I would then press lightly into the skin, with a slightly damp beauty sponge to get a flawless finish,” says Baines.
Trudi’s Long-wearing foundations
MECCA MAX Life Proof Longwear Foundation, $35. Shiseido Synchro Skin Self-Refreshing Foundation, $69. Yves Saint Laurent All Hours, $101. Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup SPF 10, $74.
Images @Leah Baines
How can you stop foundation caking in fine lines?
"I use a smoothing like a primer to prep the skin before foundation application like the Tatcha Silk Canvas Primer, $92, which acts like a subtle line-filler and skin smoother. Our faces are always moving throughout the day and creating fine lines. I use a clean fluffy foundation brush to buff all over the skin, to blend out any excess product sitting in the lines," says Baines.
Trudi’s primer picks
Tatcha The Silk Canvas Protective Primer, $92. MAC Prep + Prime Skin, $62. Too Faced Hangover Primer, $60. Too Faced Hangover Primer, $60.
Why does foundation go patchy or change colour on the skin?
"Foundation can sometimes appear patchy or even a shade or two darker after a few hours wear; this is called oxidation. It occurs when a chemical in your foundation reacts with the acid in your skin, which in turn can deepen the colour of your makeup. When choosing the perfect foundation it’s always important to trial and test before you buy. I recommend wearing the foundation for an entire day, to see how it sits on the skin, oxidation can take a while to show” says Baines.
Trudi’s sheer foundation picks
By Terry Hyaluronic Hydra Foundation SPF30, $106. Glossier Perfecting Skin Tint, $26 US$. Clarins Skin Illusion, $69. ILIA True Skin Serum Foundation, $95.
Find your perfect match online
Is your favourite foundation out of stock or out of production, Findation.com is a brilliant online tool, that allows you to compare thousands of shades from hundreds of foundations, to cross-reference. This website uses algorithms to provide you with a similar shade from every other foundation brand out there. So you don’t have to go shade shopping, you can jump online and find your fit - it’s genius.
Trudi’s luminous finish foundation picks
Nude by Nature 100% Natural Luminous Sheer Foundation, $49. Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, $109. Guerlain L'essentiel Natural Glow Foundation, $108. NARS Sheer Glow Foundation, $83.
Trudi’s foundation accessory picks
Clarins Fix Make-Up Spray SPF 30, $50. MECCA MAX Liquid Light, $28. LA MER The Hydrating Illuminator, $135. Josie Maran Cosmetics Argan Enlightenment Illuminiser, $46.
Images @Leah Baines