Pinot Gris has come an incredibly long way in an extremely short time, says wine writer Joëlle Thomson. Here she takes the work out of selecting the best to try while the weather is still warm.
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Looking back through my trusty collection of slim annual grape statistic books, Pinot Gris was unavailable in NZ in 1990. However, according to the official vineyard stats’, it finally made it here in 1997 with a minuscule 149 hectares nationally. It was a roller coaster of styles back then, too, most of them on the sweeter side with a soft body and peachy flavours. It was easy to appreciate because it didn’t have polarising qualities, such as Riesling’s often loud, often outgoing personality. If these two grapes were people, then Riesling would be the party animal, and Pinot Gris would be the friend who is always there for you, in those quiet times and on those noisier occasions too. As a wine, it’s not as versatile or unpredictable as Riesling and Pinot Gris doesn’t age as well either, but as a wine to enjoy right now, it does the job exceptionally well. So much so that Pinot Gris is now surpassed Riesling in the national vineyard area in this country. Today there are 2774 hectares of Gris grapes planted nationwide. It grows prolifically in every wine region in New Zealand and various styles; most of them are very food-friendly - from dry or medium-dry, as this tasty trio shows. Read on to learn more.
Villa Maria Seddon Pinot Gris RRP $30
This 2020 new release from Villa Maria comes from a windswept vineyard at Seddon, south of Blenheim. This area is part of the Awatere Valley, which is cooler in a climate than other vineyard areas in Marlborough, which provides the grapes with refreshing acidity to add nerve and tension to this off-dry, fleshy tasting white. Expect to taste flavours of white pear and a hint of spice.
Graze with: Hummus with seed crackers.
Dine with: Barbecued chicken thighs with an oregano and citrus zest marinade.
Rating: 19/20
Terrace Edge Pinot Gris, $24
Fleshy, full-bodied and rich in style. This 2020 lovely Pinot Gris comes from North Canterbury and is an unusually smooth style thanks to a little old oak fermentation for a portion of the grapes. It was finished in a medium sweet style which lends texture and a full body to this characterful Pinot Gris. It finishes on a medium-dry note - the southern freshness keeps the wine tight.
Graze with: Slivers of fresh salmon sashimi.
Dine with: Salted cod with roast capsicum salad.
Rating: 18.5/20
Whitehaven Pinot Gris $23
This 2019-20 Pinot Gris is a deliciously versatile dry wine with flavours of fresh Nashi pears and red apples. Medium-body and flavoursome, it has a dry finish. Winemaker Peter Jackson intentionally makes this wine in a style that is incredibly food-friendly, so it matches well with salads, fruit and white meat. Its clean fresh flavours make it a wine to drink with lunch on holidays or on those days when all you need to do is relax.
Graze with: Pear and walnut salad with sourdough.
Dine with: Smoked chicken salad with roast pears.
Rating: 18.5/20
For the gal who has everything.