The latest buzz ingredient to boost moisture in the skin is ectoin. Dubbed the skin's bodyguard - read on to learn more, says editor Trudi Brewer.
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You can call ectoin the latest 'it' ingredient. That’s because of its ability to act as a skin cell protector, hydrator, and guard against UV damage. Clever chemists praise this organic compound found in many species of bacteria (from algae and microorganisms), but most commonly, salt-loving varieties. These microscopic organisms thrive in extreme environments, often very salty, hot, freezing or drought-like climates, and often form on the rocks near hydrothermal vents.
What is ectoin?
It's been on our radar since 1985, but beauty brands have only recently launched formulas that proudly call out its presence. So why is ecotin hot right now? This tiny amino acid molecule, or osmolyte, binds to water (like hyaluronic acid) to protect cells against chemical and physical damage. It provides a nourishing, stabilising, and hydrating shell around cells and proteins to reduce oxidative stress - hence the bodyguard dub.
How does it benefit the skin daily?
Famous for protecting the skin, ectoin helps skin cells maintain the optimal water balance, nourishing and firmness. It also handles daily environmental stressors such as pollution and UVA or UVB light and has brilliant anti-inflammatory benefits. Ectoin can calm sensitivities while strengthening the skin’s barrier locking moisture deep in the skin, much like niacinamide or vitamin B3. It also plays nice with almost every skincare formula, enhancing the impact of other ingredients, including humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin and barrier-strengthening ingredients like ceramides and niacinamide. Finally, it mitigates the side effects of active ingredients such as AHA, BHA, and acids, as well as vitamin A or retinoids, which can cause redness or irritation of the skin.
Here are the skincare products that contain ectoin
Perricone MD Hypoallergenic Firming Eye Cream, $131.
Stacked with ecotin, hyaluronic acid, peptides (proteins) and vitamin E, this is the ideal eye cream for anyone with dry, dull skin under the delicate eye area. It is cruelty-free, without alcohol, allergens, parabens or sulfates, and gentle enough for anyone with sensitive skin.
KIEHL’s Ultra Facial Skin Rescuer, $66.
Created to reduce the effects of stress on the skin, such as redness and a weakened skin barrier, with the blend of ectoin and rosa gallica to minimise irritation, mannose (glucose) to strengthen the skin’s barrier and chamomile to soothe redness. It’s an ultra-lightweight cream that keeps skin hydrated all day, perfect to use in cold, windy weather.
Dr. Dennis Gross DermInfusions 3D Visible Fill + Repair Serum, $136.
This new doctor-formulated infusion claims to fill fine lines and plump ageing skin with a clever ‘MicroCelle delivery system’ that boosts the effectiveness of each ingredient. These include hyaluronic acid with four different molecular weights for optimal absorption and niacinamide and ectoin, which are not only brilliant for skin barrier repair, and the antioxidants in the formula calm any irritation.
Dr. Barbara Sturm The Better B Niacinamide Serum, $242.
Another doctor-led skincare brand with cutting-edge ingredients, including skin-changing ectoin. This serum was created to reduce the look of coarse, rough, or uneven complexion with visibly enlarged or open pores. How? The bend of vitamins B3, B5, and marine plankton also helps strengthen the skin barrier and boost hydration.
HOURGLASS Equilibrium Restoring Essence, $118.
Made by the glow-giving makeup brand, this essence (not to be confused with a toner) is a hydration boost that should be applied before serums and moisturisers. It is stacked with active ingredients, including amino youth lipids that mimic a crucial nutrient in amniotic fluid and a ‘Pollution Shield Complex’ antioxidants to protect the skin from our harsh environment, as well as glycerin and the uber-hydrator ectoin.
