Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, has been dubbed the Swiss Army Knife of skincare ingredients. Its versatility in tackling many concerns is remarkable, and one science-based skincare company is hailing it as the future anti-ageing active. Editor Trudi Brewer asks Avene’s head of Medical Sales and Training ANZ, Janis McNicholas, to share its virtues and a new skincare collection loaded with it.

Vitamin B3 and its multiple monikers, including niacin (nicotinic acid), niacinamide (nicotinamide) and inositol hexanicotinate, are superstar ingredients. Getting the seal of approval from dermatologists across the globe, if you’re curious about how it can benefit your skin, here’s some expert advice McNicholas has garnered from the British Association of Dermatologists.

Avene’s head of Medical Sales and Training ANZ, Janis McNicholas.

Q&A

Why is niacinamide a promising active skincare ingredient?

A versatile ingredient that offers several benefits for the skin that is present in our food (meat, fish and cereals), but while it's naturally present in our body, very little of it is stored by the body. It helps maintain skin health by strengthening the skin barrier and has been shown to make your skin stronger, smoother, brighter and younger. Prospective studies show that it will be the anti-ageing key ingredient of the future, well ahead of hyaluronic acid and vitamin C, and its benefits are a growing topic in over 300 medical publications.

So, what are the skin benefits?

There are many.

First, skin immunity: Niacinamide helps keep your skin firm and healthy.

Lipid barrier: Niacinamide can help retain moisture, which benefits all skin types.
Minimizes redness and blotchiness: Niacinamide may help ease redness from various skin conditions.
Regulates oil: Niacinamide may help regulate the amount of oil the sebaceous glands produce and prevent your glands from overdrive.
May aid in hyperpigmentation: Some research has found that niacinamide concentrations of 10 per cent can help reduce dark spots.
Minimizes fine lines and wrinkles: Research has also found that various concentrations helped reduce signs of sun damage that come with ageing, including fine lines and wrinkles.
It acts as an antioxidant and protects against oxidative stress: Niacinamide helps protect cells in the skin while also protecting them from environmental stresses, such as sunlight, pollution, and toxins.

How long do you need to use it to see results?

It depends on your skin type, the condition of the skin barrier, and the concentration as well as other ingredients in the formula of skincare you use – and how compliant you are with your skincare. Niacinamide has many beneficial effects on skin ageing. It is the most effective molecule on senescence (This science that inspired this skincare) at six per cent concentration. Studies have found that niacinamide prolongs the lifespan of cells and delays their entry into senescence. Studies have also shown reduced wrinkles, fine lines, and better skin elasticity after three months of topical application of a treatment containing five per cent niacinamide.

Can you mix it with active key ingredients like vitamin A or C?

Niacinamide and pro-vitamin C work well toghether. They're easily absorbed into the skin and have a synergistic action to brighten the skin and even the skin tone. Niacinamide and pro-vitamin A are also a great combination for night use. Retinaldehyde is a gold standard stable form of pro-vitamin A and benefits the skin to smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Always remember to use a broad spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen during the day.

Any side effects with this ingredient?

Suppose you're considering introducing niacinamide (or any new skincare product) to your day or night routine. In that case, it's always a good idea to conduct a skin patch before applying skincare or discuss/consult with a healthcare professional before use.

What percentage do you need to look for in skincare?

Depending on your needs and wants, any percentage will be beneficial. However, under five per cent is excellent for strengthening the skin barrier, six per cent for anti-ageing benefits, and 10 per cent to target dark spots and pigmentation.

Learn more about the Avene Active B3 Collection

Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 Concentrated Plumping Serum, $82.

McNicholas states, “This concentrated serum is incredibly beneficial, as a strong skin barrier is crucial to preventing further dehydration. With the combination of vitamin B3 and hyaluronic acid that helps to hydrate the, then vitamin B3 helps to lock it in.” This formula has eight ingredients, with six per cent of niacinamide. The moment you press it into the skin, it instantly tightens the skin as it absorbs in seconds, and you can apply it on the neck and face, including the delicate eye area.

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AVÈNE HYALURON ACTIV B3 RENEWAL FIRMING CREAM, $80.

If you were looking for a clean cream, 92 per cent of the ingredients in this day cream are naturally derived. The lightweight formula is stacked with two weights of hyaluronic acid to hydrate deep in the skin and on the surface, and it’s also enriched with Haritaki extract, an ancient antioxidant with excellent antibacterial properties. All that and the skincare hero niacinamide, at six per cent.

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AVÈNE HYALURON ACTIV B3 MULTI-INTENSIVE NIGHT CREAM, $81.

Hydrating, skin strengthening and brightening, this night cream’s secret weapon is pro-vitamin A (also known as retinaldehyde or retinal), which illuminates the skin and helps blur the look of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots. Niacinamide at six per cent smooths the skin's texture and boosts moisture - making it luxurious yet not greasy, and the results are addictive.