Brow trends are cyclic. Our smallest assets have evolved over the decades to become a fashion statement. Brooke Shields springs to mind from the 80s, when this decade welcomed an all-natural look with brows the biggest, bushiest versions of themselves. The 2000s sadly bought back an anorexic, sharply lined, ultra-thin brow, which stars like Gwen Stefani made famous. Among our brow journeys, treatments have gone from brow bleaching to the 'boy brow' and brow lamination, each a semi-solution to groom your best assets.
Fast-forward to the 2010s, the 'on fleek' brow trend dominated our social media feeds. Images of Kim Kardashian's well-manicured, tattooed brow tempted us to try yet another look, a more permanent makeup solution. While tattoos are nothing new and on the skin for the long haul, ink on the brows is also forever. At the mercy of the artist, they can be hit and miss, and not all tattooed brows stay looking 'on fleek'. Once you commit to a brow tattoo, it may be bold with a crisp tail from the get-go, but over time, colours fade, and the lines blur; your face also changes thanks to gravity. Case in point with style director Louise Hilsz, who has tried almost every makeup and permanent makeup brow trend. From brow gel to microblading (brow tattooing) and ombré soft powdered brows. Now, her goal is a natural-looking, bushy brow that makes the most of what she was born with - well, almost. But first, we ask laser tattoo removal expert Brandi Turei, owner and operator of the Laser Studio in Auckland central to share what to expect when removing permanent brow makeup.
Q&A
Brandi Turei beauty therapist and laser technician
What are the downsides to cosmetic tattooing?
While some cosmetic tattoos fade over time, they are generally considered permanent. If the results are not as expected or if trends change, it may be challenging to reverse the effects. Over time, the pigments in cosmetic tattoos may change colour or fade, leading to a need for touch-ups or adjustments to maintain the desired look. However, as with any cosmetic procedure, there are risks. First, the technician makes mistakes, such as asymmetrical eyebrows or uneven lip lines. Corrections can be challenging and may not always be perfect.
What laser do you use, and how does it work?
I use a Picosecond laser that emits short pulses of light in the picosecond range, which is one trillionth of a second. This incredibly short pulse duration allows the laser to target and break down pigment particles in the skin more effectively than traditional lasers, which emit pulses in the nanosecond range (one billionth of a second).
What causes the pigment to change colour and bleed over time?
When you undergo laser tattoo removal for cosmetic ink tattoos, the laser breaks down the ink particles into smaller fragments. Your body's immune system then naturally removes these fragmented particles over time. The effectiveness of the removal can depend on various factors, including the colours used in the tattoo, the depth of the ink, and your skin type. Multiple sessions may be required to achieve the desired results, and complete removal is not always guaranteed. Cosmetic ink can break down into a reddish colour after laser treatments due to the range of coloured pigments used in ink. Like tattoo inks, cosmetic inks can contain a variety of pigments, including organic and inorganic compounds and metal oxides. It's important to note that the exact colour changes that occur during laser tattoo removal can vary depending on the exact pigments used in ink and other factors like the type of laser used, the depth of the ink, and each person’s skin colouring.
What can you expect from the first treatment?
For tattooed eyebrows, you may notice some immediate changes, such as mild redness, swelling, and pinpoint bleeding at the treatment site. These effects are usually temporary and should subside within a few days. In terms of the tattoo itself, you may not see significant fading after just one session. It's important to note that the exact colour changes that occur during laser tattoo removal can vary depending on the ink.
How long does each session take?
About 5-20 minutes.
Is it painful?
It's not pain-free, but most people only experience minor discomfort. A cooling device is used throughout the treatment to help ease this discomfort.
How many sessions does it take to remove?
Typically, eyebrow tattoos can take between two and ten treatments.
What is your best brow tip for anyone considering microblading or powder brows?
Check out all your options, always research the clinic, and expect a good consultation about your expectations and the result you are looking for.
What does brow tattoo removal cost?
$120 per session.
Before and After
Four clients treated by Laser Studio below share their tattoo removal journey.
Style Director Louise Hilsz’s brow journey
To say I am brow-obsessed is an understatement. I was born with fine, blonde brows and have always dreamed of luscious, naturally thick, boy-looking brows. I even stopped plucking them when I was 20 (I’m now 39) because I knew I could potentially be thinning my best assets. So, I have searched for enhancement in many places. I tried microblading twice (first in 2016) with a touch-up a year later, and then in 2021, the next trend to turn my head was an ombré soft powdered treatment. This time, it delivered my goal, a well-defined, cosmetic look that didn’t require my skill with brow gels or pencils daily. For years, I was thrilled with these results and highly recommend the treatment for people suffering from what I would call a weak-looking brow. However, over time (without those touch-ups, the colour faded), that crisp finish to my brows was not permanent. I have also invested in lamination treatments (essentially brow perming) every eight weeks, which I love, but it can make the brow hair fine and fragile. At one brow service, the therapist didn’t understand the look I was going for and heavily waxed my brows, which put me back months in my quest for a full, bushy-looking brow. So, this prompted me to invest in LiBrow to boost hair growth and start fresh by removing the tattoo.
After a consultation with Brandi Turei from Laser Studio, we discussed the risks and expectations of what would happen with the removal process. Having had several other laser treatments on my body and face include tattoo removal, I was not hesitant about the procedure or pain. My first treatment was quick (both brows were done in under a minute), and I immediately had a great result. The grey pigment had lifted to a soft brown. I went back six weeks later for a second treatment and had a similar result.
Six weeks later, they have healed, and I am so happy. There is still a soft shadow from the original brow tattoo, which I love as it gives a subtle depth to my look. After using LiBrow serum for 12 weeks, I do have a thicker, bushier-looking brow, which was the ultimate goal - at last.
Before & After
Hilsz’s top brow products
LiLash LiBrow Eyebrow Serum, $135. Anastasia Beverly Hills Clear Brow Gel, $41. Amy Jean Daily Brow Mask, $89. Brow Code Brow Gold Nourishing Growth Oil, $20.
Mention BeautyEQ when you book your brow tattoo removal at Laser Studio, and you will receive a special rate of $99 per treatment instead of $120. The offer is valid until October 31, 2024.
To watch out for in 2025.