There is a rare compassion in Trelise Cooper that you don't often find in someone who is driven, tenacious, and very successful. She is humble, funny, and a bit nostalgic, but mostly, she is a genuine down-to-earth Kiwi. Contrary to what you may read, Aotearoa is and will always be her forever home. Dame Trelise Cooper sits down with editor Trudi Brewer to share the future of her global brand and what she loves most: designing fashion and spending time with family.

*Cooper in her St Helier’s apartment in Auckland*

Cooper grew up in West Auckland as a bubbly girl who attended Henderson High School; she never intended to be a fashion designer. She didn't study the arts or fashion and left school at 15. Despite that, she has built a fashion empire from the ground up with her husband, former textile wholesaler Jack Cooper, and an army of loyal staff. She has clocked 39 years with the brand, her labels famous for bold colour and floral prints, gathering fandom along the way.

Her collections are coveted and worn by women of all ages and all walks of life, including politicians and celebrities such as Miley Cyrus, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Julia Roberts, Liv Tyler, and Fleetwood Mac's Stevie Nicks. Overseeing and designing four brands, which equates to 16 collections yearly, this business is not for the faint-hearted; it requires discipline, deep pockets, and an element of risk.

Under her eponymously named brand, Trelise Cooper label, there are also Cooper, COOP, and Curate, each at varying price points and appealing to women of all shapes, sizes, and ages.

Unlike any other New Zealand designer, Cooper's gift is that she has garnered a firm following of 'dopamine dressers'. "We do attract dopamine dressers (people who intentionally choose to wear colour and prints to evoke happiness and positivity in their day)," says Cooper. She has been instrumental in changing how New Zealand women dress, helping many women detox from black, a colour synonymous with New Zealand fashion and our uniform on the world stage.

When asked why she thinks women love her clothes, she replied, "I think it's because they get many compliments when wearing them. It's lovely that they come back for more each season. I think many women have developed an addiction because they feel so good in what they are wearing. So many of our customers share stories of being stopped in the street, told they look fabulous and asked what they’re wearing. I think my clothes give women confidence."

Cooper’s Zen open-plan living room

Those fans are one reason Cooper calls New Zealand home and will always do so. While her energy is boundless and her passion for her brand is unwavering, at 66, she recognises that the next decade is precious. Recently stepping back from the day-to-day running of Trelise Cooper Ltd, she is handing the reins to the newly appointed CEO, Kate Devlin, who has been with Cooper for 27 years, and general manager Judith Pratt, who has been by Cooper's side for two decades.

Her life goals are similar to most women in this stage. "I want to have the luxury of time to spend with family. I am at that stage of life, as is Jack (Cooper's husband, who is 11 years her senior), where we want to start living. I am also of that generation whose family are not returning to live in New Zealand. Our son and his wife have made a life in San Diego with incredible careers. So, I am not waiting anymore for him to come home; we are going to him. While we talk most days, I miss him and being in his presence.”

 Cooper is not just a fashion designer. She is a household name, and in 2004, she was recognised by becoming a Member of the New Zealand Order of Merit (NZOM) and knighted as Dame Trelise Cooper for her services to fashion ten years later. She admits that building the business of her dreams has allowed her to give back to the community she loves. Honoured to be a past patron of Breast Cancer Cure and Auckland's Returned Services Association, she is here for the long haul and is excited by her future.

Cooper and her sparkling water view and Rangitoto as an iconic shape on Auckland’s horizon

Here, Cooper shares the next chapter in an incredible career, her thoughts on ageing, and what makes a house a home.

Career

So, what is the official line regarding you leaving New Zealand?

I am selling my apartment. People do that. I am a New Zealander, and I love New Zealand. New Zealand is our home and will always be home. We have had a house in France for fifteen years and have always spent European summers there. I still work daily on design, but I have stepped back from the day-to-day running of Trelise Cooper Ltd, handing the reigns to Kate and Judith. For me, it's simply about not working nine to five and having more freedom. We want to free up capital to buy something smaller in St Helier's and a home in San Diego to spend more time with our son. That's it.

What's your greatest strength as a fashion designer?

My strength is knowing what will make women feel confident, empowered, and beautiful. I have an intuitive sense, an eye for detail and an abundance of innate ideas.

Where do you get your creative inspiration?

It is in all places and everything. Sometimes, I see a fabric and say, ‘Oh my gosh, I can't wait to put that into XYZ.’ Or it's a colour palette, or I see something in the street and think, that's  a cool idea. Museums, art galleries, movies, and songs are sources of inspiration.

What is your design process like? When you start a new collection, where do you begin?

It often begins with fabric. We create a storyboard and expand and evolve that through  weeks of design.

Is there a retail connection to that?

Independent retailers make up a considerable portion of our business along with our own  boutiques and online. Retailers need a merchandised story to sell, so I have become more  disciplined in how a range comes together. While it is about the fabric, it also encompasses  a new shape or silhouette I might like to include in a collection.

Fashion is a tough business. With our cost of living at an all-time high, it's a luxury for some. Trelise Cooper's business is robust in-store and online, and your recent lunch at Soul Bar sold out in three hours—a massive acknowledgement of success. What do you put that down to?

There is a purpose. Retailers view our collections and look to us for those must-have pieces,  so that is always on my mind. As a designer, I sometimes have to pull back on my ideas  because I know they are not safe enough to sell in retail. So it's a compromise. We have  trained ourselves to think: Have we hit the mark with this collection? Are we offering  something for that lady who needs a sleeve, for that lady who is body conscious, or for that  lady who wants no sleeve and a figure-hugging slip dress? So, we work hard to meet the  needs of all those women in each fabric group of each collection.

Aspects of Coopers St Helier’s apartment

So, what's the mood in fashion right now?

There is a move toward 'quiet luxury' It's more than having thoughtful shopping habits and  focusing on timeless investment pieces. It's a movement. But as a designer, I am struggling  with that. It's a neutral colour palette with minimal print. Currently, international stores are full  of beige, black and camel. But I have been through enough recessions to know that while it's  a time when designers typically pull back. Trelise Cooper is famous for bold colours and  prints, so we must continue to do that. It's a mistake to rebrand in a recession and offer the same garments from season to season, so we are still full noise; remember, we have those  dopamine dressers to cater to. But, at the same time, we must acknowledge what is  happening in fashion globally and deliver that to our retailers.

What core values keep a business thriving during a recession?

Integrity and relationships are essential. You won't have a long-term business without both.  You have to be trusted in what you say and deliver in what you do. You need good  relationships with customers and great relationships with suppliers and staff. Your staff must  come to work and feel valued and respected; you have no business without your team.

Some of your staff have been with you for decades. How do you foster loyalty?

They keep themselves loyal. Our staff have made strong friendships as they care about  each other like family, they spend lots of time together and love and respect each other. We  work very hard to foster that. We are full-on all the time. No one in our business has an easy  ride. But we also celebrate. Birthdays, babies, our success. We also have age diversity. I  have two women in their 80s who still work part-time and one who is 79 who works full-time  and wants to be there daily; she loves working and being around young people. We have a range of ages from 80 to 18. Everyone fits in and loves what they do.

You have a fandom; your customers are so loyal. How did you create that?

We know what shapes make women happy and confident. Our clothes are head turning,  flattering and standout. My body was the reason I started my brand. It was too curvy, short,  not standard.

So, does that love-hate relationship with your body improve with age?

You become more accepting. Also, getting to your 60s is a privilege. While I do think age  sucks in so many ways, I hate the wrinkles because I believe I think like I did in my 30s. I am as energetic, interested, curious, and even more up-to-date as I was in my 30s, but I am in my 60s. I shouldn't berate my age like I do. I am very lucky and grateful to be here. Alive,  healthy and happy.

What have you been most surprised by working in the fashion industry?

I'm surprised at how unglamorous and hard it is. It is hard work. The glamour does come at events like yours, the BeautyEQ Long Lunch, and when we put models on a runway with our new collections like we do at Soul Bar twice a year. But fashion is also relentless. I am always racing against the clock, on a timetable, so the pressure is always on.

What was your "I've made it" moment?

I thought about that; there have been many. But Kate reminded me of this. My Dad sat with  Mum at NZ Fashion Week and said, "Look at the thousands of people here; if it weren't for you and me, they wouldn't be here." (She shares with tears in her eyes).

Your office motto is: "Work is love made visible."What does that mean to you?

We are all on a human journey regardless of what we do for a living. You constantly think  about the other humans who will use your service or touch your brand. Everybody who  works on our brand, at any stage, from sewing on a button to being in a design meeting  looking at fabrics, is thinking about the women who buy our fashion, so everything we do is  with love. I want to improve women's lives by empowering them and giving them confidence when they wear our clothes. To me, that is love. So what you do, your work is love made  visible.

Cooper’s master bedroom, hallway and entrance

What advice would you give up-and-coming designers?

Cherish the dream and run with it. But it's not easy, (Cooper says in a whisper). It feels like it has become harder and harder. If you start in fashion, you must be well-funded. It can take a year or more to realise your initial investment, from designing and making a garment to hanging it on the rack in a store to finally selling it. The life cycle of our collections from the start to being paid is 18 months - that's if you are paid on time.

What does the future look like for Trelise Cooper – both the brand and you personally?

The business is strong under the helm of Kate and Judith; it's going well, and that's exciting. We are about to launch Shopify, an evolution in our online business that will allow us to sell internationally because there is a great demand for it. The New Zealand designer market is getting smaller, while young ones are coming up, there is a gap in the market. With our four brands, there is something for everyone at every age. So we are focused on evolving that, keeping it fresh and directional.

For me, it means not being in the business nine to five. I am still on the design team. I am going to France in a couple of weeks, and then I will meet the team in Shanghai at the fabric fairs, where we will be away together for ten days, visiting suppliers and putting together the following collections. The team will return to New Zealand, and I will return to France, and we will have daily conversations. I am mindful that when the team wakes up in the morning, it’s evening in France, and I may have had a glass of rosé, so we decided a while ago, with the time difference, there would be a few hours each day where we work together productively. As far as where I live, I will always live in New Zealand, which is my home, but I will be spending more time in San Diego and France.

Fashion

Who is your fashion icon, and why?

Alexander McQueen was an artisan, a true craftsman, and an emotional designer. Sarah Burton did a fantastic job after him, but he was a unique creative. Also, Iris Apfel was a pure dopamine dresser. Her style, colour combinations, and ability to always wear everything were fabulous.

How would you describe your signature style regarding your brand and day-to-day look?

I love florals, but right now, I am enjoying dressing a little more off-duty - as a nod to that quiet luxury trend.

What fashion brands do you buy and love?

I love Prada and Christian Dior. I adore Japanese and Korean designers, and when I am there, I shop. They are not expensive brands; many I buy from are unknown designers, but I love their unique aesthetic.

Trelise at home in her dressing room

Beauty

What are your favourite beauty products you buy on repeat?

Creme de La Mer and Too Faced Born This Way Foundation. Recently, I was introduced to Milani lipsticks, and they're great; I love the satin texture.

What is the one non-negotiable in your beauty routine?

A Lenski Salon blow dry. Also, cleansing. I never go to bed wearing makeup. Even at my most tired, I still take my makeup off at the end of the day.

You’re famous for your bubbly, blonde curls. Has quiet luxury crept into your hairstyle with your straight look right now?

I have gone straight because I got sick of that curly look, and I discovered that curls are lots of work. I no longer have to wash my hair every day, and after a couple of smoothing treatments, I can do more with my hair and not have to put as much time into it. Also, the new Kèrastase Première Décalcifiant Repairing collection for damaged hair is brilliant.

An edit of Cooper’s beauty collection

You are the most stunning woman in her 60s. How do you feel about ageing?

I don't love it because I don't feel it. But I know I am very privileged to have the health and energy I have at this age. I have a great life, and there is power to get to my age.

Favourite fragrance?

I have always worn a different fragrance every day including Tom Ford and Byredo, until lately. We were in a taxi in France. Our train had broken down, so we were in for a long journey. And the woman driving the taxi smelt so fantastic. I asked her what she was wearing. It's Patchouli Blanc by Reminiscence. It's not a particularly fancy or expensive fragrance, but when I wear it, people ask about it. I love it.

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Reminiscence Patchouli Blanc by Reminiscence 100ml EDP, $115. Too Faced Born This Way Foundation, $86. Milani Classic Colour Statement Lipstick, $19. Kérastase Première Décalcifiant Repairing Shampoo, $72.

Home

What will you miss about your home?

The view. We are so lucky to have that sparkling water view and Rangitoto as an iconic shape on our horizon. Growing up with that in Auckland, we take it for granted. I will also miss the silence of this apartment. It's so quiet. When I close the blinds at night, it's so peaceful and dark, ideal for a good night's sleep.

What's your most treasured possession?

I don't get attached to things, but interior-wise, our Oscar Tusquets table has been ours for  30 years; we both love it. A white urn, which is full of orchids right now, has been used many  times at parties filled with champagne, fruit or flowers. I also love beautiful glasses, platters and bowls.

What makes a house a home?

The people in it. The comfort and warmth you create. I love to cook and entertain, and I always have a full fridge and freezer. If you came to my home, there would always be something to eat. I love being at home and being a homemaker.

Cooper in her kitchen preparing a platter

What are your favourite homeware brands?

RH, Restoration Hardware, an American interior brand. What I love about their furniture is the scale; they make fantastic big furniture.

What do you collect?

For years, I have collected French antiques from the market we visit every summer. But when I am back in France, I intend to pare back what I have and have a clear out. I will drive it up the road and give some to the charity shops.

What do you think makes a great interior?

One that reflects the person that's in it. But there needs to be comfort. Enough sofas to lie about and cuddle up on and for many people to gather on. This apartment is very paired back for me because it's for sale; I want people to walk in and imagine themselves living here. But, in saying that, I have loved living with less; we have an edited amount of stuff here, which has a Zen calm about it. You accumulate lots of stuff when you love to travel and work in fashion or beauty.