Haircare ingredients

We often hear about the best skincare ingredients but rarely about the good ones that make a difference to our hair. Like our skin, hair needs nourishment and protection. Editor Trudi Brewer says the ingredients below boost growth and shine. Read on to learn more.

 

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Glycerin

Glycerin, or glycerol, is a hero hydrator. It draws in moisture to the hair and scalp while helping to create a barrier to prevent moisture from leaving locks, but it also benefits the products you use. “It helps to make products smoother and a little oilier and makes them a little easier to apply to the scalp,” says dermatologist Orit Markowitz, who adds, “Glycerin has a small molecular size, allowing it to work like a moisture magnet for the scalp and hair, helping curb frizz, dryness and scalp flaking.”

Olaplex No.8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask, $61.

Fuelled by Olaplex’s clever bond-building technology (which repairs dry, brittle, colour-treated, and sun-damaged hair), it’s also stacked with avocado, meadowfoam seed, sunflower, rice bran, hemp, and rosehip oils, glycerine and hydrolysed jojoba esters, vitamin B5, glycerin, and peptides to not only give her back her lustre and shine but also strengthen and protect it from further damage.

To use: Apply a small amount to clean, damp hair on the mid-length to ends. Leave on for 10 minutes, and then rinse off.


Rosemary

Rosemary may currently be trending, but Dr. Markowitz says this herb holds its weight in the haircare space and is one she is starting to see more often. “Healthy, natural and anti-inflammatory ingredients such as rosemary and safflower oil can help calm inflammation and promote hair growth,” Markowitz believes; this oil is a no-brainer addition to any haircare regimen, especially if a compromised scalp and thinning hair hit close to home.

Umberto Giannini Rosemary Hair & Scalp Oil, $27.

While rosemary is the hero ingredient in this oil, it is joined by 16 others, including jojoba, eucalyptus, castor, and peppermint oils. You may think all those oils would leave hair looking oily - but no. Its non-greasy formula stimulates hair follicles while nourishing your scalp. As a bonus, it tames frizz, is a great heat protector, and leaves hair with a fresh, minty scent.


Vitamin C

Similar to its role in skin care, topical vitamin C has been found to combat oxidative damage and dullness when used on the hair. Vitamin C is also a natural chelating agent. According to Dr. Markowitz, vitamin C may also play a role in rejuvenating the dermis of the scalp, thanks to less oxidative damage.

Amika Supernova Moisture And Shine Cream, $55.

Along with vitamin C, Omega 7, coconut, sea buckthorn castor and olive oils, this is a weightless styling and leave-in hair hydrator and a heat-protecting cream. You can use damp or apply to dry hair to curb that frizz and flyaways.


Rice Water

Rice water is not only a buzz ingredient in skincare; it has grown in Google haircare searches by 10.2 per cent in the past year alone. The reason: A quick science lesson: Hair is mainly made up of keratin, a naturally occurring protein already present in each strand. However, those protein bonds degrade, especially with frequent heat styling and hair colouring. Rice water is filled with strengthening nutrients that help restore withered hair bonds, reversing damage and boosting shine. But that is not all; it’s also stacked with vitamins B, C, and E, which promote hair strength and growth.

Briogeo Don't Despair, Repair MegaStrength+ Rice Water Protein + Moisture Strengthening Treatment, $81

Weekly hair treatment for damaged locks, thanks to the rice protein water, vitamin B and rosehip oil. This is pricy but will transform dry, damaged hair while controlling frizz.

To use: This is a speedy 10-minute hair mask, or you can sleep with it overnight for a deep treatment. Apply to clean, damp hair and then rinse out the residue.


Hyaluronic acid

A skincare favourite for its moisture-binding ability, hyaluronic acid also offers promising benefits for the hair and scalp. “Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, which means hydration occurs by drawing out surface moisture from within,” says Dr. Markowitz. Who adds, “When applied to the scalp, the acid may help hydrate and prevent dryness.” This ingredient also has plumping properties, making your hair look more voluminous.

The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Hair Treatment, $21.

Created to curb frizz, this lightweight leave-in serum is formulated with two molecular weights of hyaluronic acid to boost moisture in every strand. Add vitamin B5 and castor oil, it also boosts shine, while protecting the hair from our harsh environment.


Peptides

Peptide-infused formulas are your hair’s best friend; why? If you are dealing with hair breakage, especially from bleaching. Peptides are proteins that work within the hair shaft to repair bonds and ultimately strengthen your locks.

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL BC Bonacure Repair Rescue Sealed Ends+, $32.

Stacked with vegan keratin and arginine, soy and wheat amino acids (proteins), and nourishing Shea butter. Together, these ingredients rebuild those hair bonds while moisturising each strand, giving hair more elasticity and allowing it to stretch and endure trauma without breaking or splitting.


Salicylic Acid

Zinc pyrithione may be the gold standard for busting dandruff, but salicylic acid is making waves in the oil-balancing, flake-reducing game. Dr. Markowitz explains: “This ingredient helps remove buildup on the scalp and even helps with mild scales and itching. The reliable acid also helps to bring the scalp’s natural exfoliation levels back to a healthy baseline.”

Alpha-H Healthy Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, $45.

For anyone with a flaky, itchy scalp, salicylic acid's fast-activating exfoliating power breaks down excess oil and product build-up while helping to prevent dandruff dermatitis. Vitamin C-loaded Australian desert lime, soothing myrtle flower, rice vinegar, chrysanthemum extracts, and glycerin boost hair growth, shine, and help protect the scalp microbiome.