Even the most skin-savvy can benefit from a purposeful routine. While cleansing is the holy grail in any regime (day and night), the following steps are influenced by our ever-changing environment, which is why our skin has different needs from morning to nighttime. Here's how to maximise the benefits and tailor the products you use. Editor Trudi Brewer guides you on finding a simple but perfectly formed skincare routine.
Skin needs moisture 24/7, but certain ingredients play better together. Antioxidants are number one for daytime; think of these as sponges that soak up free radicals while bolstering your SPF, helping protect the skin against damage. The most common include vitamin B3 (niacinamide), C and E. While nighttime, vitamin A (or retinol in all its forms) is the gold standard. It helps speed up skin cell turnover, boosting firmness and clarity, while hyaluronic acid and ceramides nourish and protect the skin's barrier. But the buzz in beauty right now is peptides, small proteins with brilliant restoring abilities, smoothing and firming the skin, day and night.
AM: Gentle Cleanse
First things first, good skincare habits include cleansing the skin twice daily. In the morning, a gentle cleanse removes any oil or sweat from the night. For most, a gentle morning cleanse offers a moment to wipe away any remaining serums, creams, or oils applied the night before. For this, we are big fans of Micellar Water (a French beauty staple for good reason). It refreshes a sleepy complexion by soothing the skin and boosting moisture to kick off your day. There are also Micellar cleansing oils, brilliant and best for those who wake up to a dry-feeling complexion.
Dr LeWinns Vitamin Infused Micellar Cleansing Water, $20. Bioderma Sebium H20 Purifying Cleansing Micellar Water, $26. Clarins Cleansing Micellar Water, $67. La Roche-Posay Cleansing Micellar Foaming Water, $32.
PM: Double cleansing
This practice was designed to remove the grime and makeup from the day and set you up for all your skincare investments. So, rightly, it calls for a double cleanse. Typically, a double cleanse consists of an oil or balm cleanser to remove SPF and makeup first, followed by your cleanser of choice. While cleansing is the most important step (next to sunscreen) in any routine, it does not have to break the bank. There are plenty of great cleansers for day and night at affordable prices.
Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm,$88. Weleda Skin Food Nourishing Cleansing Balm, $26. Q+A Grapefruit Cleansing Balm, $20. Dr LeWinn's Cleanser Series Daily Cleansing Balm, $59.
Our skin’s needs
Thanks to overnight water loss, our skin is at its driest when we wake and needs to protect itself all day; hence, hydrating serums or lotions and sunscreen should be your morning go-to's. But while we're sleeping, our skin switches into repair mode. The sleep hormone melatonin increases our skin's ability to repair; our skin cells regenerate and are more receptive to absorbing nourishing creams and oils.
AM: Antioxidant serums
You’ve probably heard about antioxidants; if you’ve ever wondered what they do for the skin, you’re not alone. Essentially, antioxidants protect against free radicals (from UV rays and pollution) that break down the collagen in our skin. Free radical damage can appear in dark spots, fine lines and sagging skin. In our efforts to preserve our collagen stores, the most common antioxidant serum you can easily add to your morning regimen is vitamin C. Not only does vitamin C provide overall protection, including brightening the skin
La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Serum, $80. Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate, $199. Avene Vitamin Activ CG Serum, $82. La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C10 Serum, $72.
PM: Treating & Targeting Serums
A serum is a corrective treatment after your double cleanse. It can address concerns such as hydration, sensitivity, redness, hyperpigmentation, and ageing. The most common skin-glowing ingredients are retinol, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. Skin repairs after a day of free radical damage at night, hence the need to treat it with serums that target skincare concerns.
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex, $226. Elizabeth Arden Retinol + HPR Capsules, from $95.Clarins Double Serum, $280. Dermalogica BioLumin-C Night Restore, $200.
Layering your skincare
How you apply your skincare matters. Start with the lightest weight, and then move to the thickest consistency. SPF goes over a lightweight serum or lotion. The last product you apply at night is a cream or oil. Finally, wait at least five minutes for products to absorb into the skin before applying the next layer.
AM: SPF laden Moisturiser
Including an SPF in your daily moisturiser is an excellent base for makeup and helps give skin an extra layer of protection. While we would always layer on sunscreen as the last product before makeup, there is no harm in doubling up on what is the one product (sunscreen) that will hold back that clock when it comes to skin ageing.
Elizabeth Arden Prevage City Smart Broad-Spectrum SPF50 Hydrating Shield, $118. Dermalogica Prisma Protect SPF30 Moisturiser,$140. CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion AM SPF15, $28. Avene Hydrance UV Rich Hydrating Cream SPF30, $59.
PM: Rich Moisturiser
Due to the skin repair process at night, it’s important to remember that your moisturiser plays an integral part in sealing all your hard-working serums and ingredients into the skin. It will also ensure your skin feels hydrated and plump when you wake. While you sleep, you can slather on a thicker (night) cream packed with nourishing ceramides and plant oils so it drenches the skin with moisture overnight.
Clarins Multi-Active Night Cream Dry Skin
This decadent cream with 94% natural ingredients, including sea holly and rich cocoa butter, helps nourish the skin while you sleep.
Dermalogica Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream
A blend of potent peptides, daisy extract, and CoQ10 lifts and firms the delicate skin around the eyes.
Elizabeth Arden Prevage 3-in-1 Reset Serum
A peptide-fuelled serum with hyaluronic acid and the hero idebenone. It's an antioxidant powerhouse - a skin serum to address all ageing concerns.
Shiseido Global Sun Care Sun Cream SPF50+ 50ml
This luxurious SPF does more than protect the skin from the sun and pollution; brilliant antioxidants also hydrate and firm.
Shiseido Vital Perfection Uplifting and Firming Advanced Cream 50ml
The multi-benefits of Japanese safflower red, ginseng root, Chinese date, and caffeine make this innovative cream ideal for day and night.
The ultimate routine, for any skin type.