The start of the new year has seen highs and lows with handbags. Style director Louise Hilsz reports on the luxury and not-so-luxury market and the future of one of the most coveted fashion items - the handbag.
Louis Vuitton x Murakami 2025 ad campaign, Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, Louis Vuitton x Murakami 2005 magazine editorial and Paris Hilton from 2005.
The highly anticipated Louis Vuitton x Murakami collection launched on January 1st. Two decades after its initial release, this collection features the celebrated designs of Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. This re-edition reimagines the iconic collaboration, blending classic Louis Vuitton signatures with Murakami's vibrant and playful aesthetic, capturing the essence of Y2K pop culture. My Instagram feed has been flooded with images of it, and the marketing certainly lured me in. At the same time, Walmart released a bag that looked very similar to a Hermès Birkin bag and was quickly named the “Wirkin”. Walmart's attempt to cash in on Birkin bag fever with their budget-friendly Wirkin was a short-lived sensation. The knock-off bag went viral but was quickly pulled from shelves after a wave of online buzz and some customer complaints. Did Hermès, the French luxury brand behind the iconic Birkin, have something to do with it? We may never know for sure. But the Wirkin's brief reign ignited a firestorm of debate about luxury, class, and the ethics of imitation. For US$78, you too could look like a Real Housewife Of Beverley Hills, but would anyone believe you were sporting a $20000 plus bag? While luxury brands often cultivate exclusivity, the Wirkin was readily available to anyone with a Walmart account. This accessibility sparked a new trend: an open celebration of dupes. TikTok exploded with creators flaunting their Wirkins, challenging the traditional status symbols of luxury. But the Wirkin wasn't just about saving money. For some, it was a small act of rebellion against the extravagant lifestyles of the wealthy. Choosing a dupe felt like a way to thumb your nose at the exclusivity of high fashion. Walmart shares are currently outperforming; some say it reflects a downturn in the economy as people spend more money at cheaper retail outlets. Does this mean the ladies are swapping out their Louis for a Wirkin?
Celebrities spotted with their Birkins.
The Wirkin vs a Birkin
Of course, the Wirkin wasn't without its critics. Made with fast fashion practices, it raised concerns about labour ethics and environmental impact. Unlike a genuine Birkin, designed to last a lifetime, the Wirkin was likely destined for the landfill after the trend faded. In a recent interview with 60 Minutes (see below), Hermès CEO Axel Dumas distinguished "expensive" and "costly" when discussing the brand's iconic Birkin bags. "I always heard that Hermès is very costly," Dumas told correspondent Sharyn Alfonsi. "It’s not expensive, it’s costly." He explained that "costly" refers to the meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail that goes into creating each bag. "Expensive," on the other hand, implies paying a high price for a product that ultimately disappoints. Dumas acknowledged the challenges of meeting the overwhelming demand for Birkin bags, citing a shortage of skilled artisans as a major bottleneck. This scarcity, he argued, is not intentional but a natural consequence of the brand's commitment to quality.
Birkin's exclusivity has generated controversy, with some customers complaining about alleged policies like annual spending requirements even to be considered for purchase. "You have to be patient," Dumas advised. "It takes a long time. Eventually, it’s going to happen." However, Dumas' claims have been met with scepticism online. While some applaud Hermès for prioritising craftsmanship in a fast-fashion world, others question the "artisan shortage" excuse, especially given the vast collections of celebrity Birkin owners. Sociologist Dr Tressie McMilan Cottom argued that buying a Wirkin was more than a fashion choice. It was a "political act” to challenge the idea that class is fixed and determined by wealth. So, did the Wirkin burst the Birkin bubble? Or did it simply make people crave the real thing even more? Only time will tell. But one thing's for sure: the Wirkin has sparked a conversation about who gets to define luxury - and the true cost of fashion.
Our luxury picks
Louis Vuitton x Murakami Venice Backpack, $7000. Balenciaga Bel Air Small Carry All Bag, $6950. Fendi Baguette Mini, $POA. Bottega Veneta Large Sardine Bag, $POA.
Would you be caught wearing a Wirkin?