October wine review

Wine expert Joelle Thomson says Pinot Gris is back. A blast from the past for some, or a crisp new summer essential? You decide. Here are three she says are worth chilling.

Joelle Thomson BeautyEQ wine writer lives in Martinborough with her partner and her puppy.

Joelle Thomson BeautyEQ wine writer lives in Martinborough with her partner and her puppy.

 
Looking for a dry fresh white? Gris ticks the box. What about a soft white with a light touch of fruity sweetness? Pinot Gris ticks that box too. No wonder it’s so popular.
— Joelle Thomson

Pinot Gris has risen faster in popularity than any other grape at any other time ever in New Zealand, so if you’re on the Gris loving bandwagon, you’re not alone. It grew from a minuscule 157 hectares in 2001 to 2,488 hectares nationwide today, making it the fourth most planted grape in New Zealand. Looking for a dry fresh white? Gris ticks the box. What about a soft white with a light touch of fruity sweetness? Pinot Gris ticks that box too. No wonder it’s so popular. Pinot Gris lends itself to both dry and off-dry aromatic styles. It is usually considered to be a French grape but the first writing about Gris was in Germany, in 1711 by Johann Ruland. The Germans often still refer to Pinot Gris as Rulander today and it remains extremely popular there, as well as in France and in Italy where it’s known as Pinot Grigio – same grape, different name. Here are three of my favourites.

 

OTU Marlborough Pinot Gris $20

Tasty summer white, here we come. This 2020 medium-bodied, smooth Pinot Gris has 7.1 grams per litre of residual sugar, which accentuates its spice and white pear aromas and lingering flavoursome finish.

Serve with: Pair with white meat or fish, foie gras, and crusty bread.
Graze with: Freshly sliced pears, slivers of quince paste and aged cheddar.

Joelle’s rating: 17.5/20

OTU Marlborough Pinot Gris $20

OTU Marlborough Pinot Gris $20


Mount Michael Mountaineer Central Otago Pinot Gris $25.

Mount Michael Mountaineer Central Otago Pinot Gris $25.

 

Mount Michael Mountaineer Central Otago Pinot Gris $25

Central Otago is home to my absolute fave New Zealand Pinot Gris. The cool climate provides refreshing acidity in the wines and this one was made from grapes grown in Tarras, which were cool-fermented in aged oak barrels to provide texture and weight. Every drop is next level, and worth every cent of the price.

Serve with: Pork chops with a cinnamon and clove glaze, and tart apple sauce.
Graze with: A platter of smoked beef or smoked duck, or for those who don’t eat meat, olives and a slice of blue cheese.

Joelle’s rating 17.5/20


 

Astrolabe Marlborough Pinot Gris $25

Simon Waghorn is one of Marlborough best’s known winemakers and for good reason. He rocks when it comes to making great whites and this one is a blend of grapes from three sub-regions in Marlborough; Awatere (73%), Waihopai (17%) and Kekerengu (10%). Loads of fruit thinning in the vineyard provided grapes with super-rich concentrated flavours, which were then cool-fermented to make a dry wine with fresh white fruit aromas and a long, soft finish - delicious.

Serve with: Salmon with a fresh seasonal salad and crisp vinaigrette.
Graze with: A mild cheese dip, or salty nuts and fresh seasonal fruit.

Joelle’s rating: 18/20

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