All skin types can benefit from regular, gentle exfoliation, says Trudi Brewer, who believes it's the secret to a luminous-looking, youthful complexion – and here's why.
Exfoliating your skin can be done in a number of different ways and the benefits are almost instant. Fruit enzymes and acids chemically exfoliate the skin, while grainy scrubs will buff your complexion clean. Both methods remove the build-up of dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, which can lead to dullness and congestion. Regular exfoliation also speeds up your skin cell turnover (which naturally slows with age) and, most importantly, improves your skin's ability to absorb everything else you put on it, namely your expensive anti-ageing and firming skincare.
For those who want speedy, but gentle results, fruit enzymes and acids – found in skin peels, masks and cleansers – work deep within the skin pore to remove grime. Over time, they have an anti-bacterial and hydrating effect on the skin. The rubbing action of manual exfoliators, such as scrubs and cleansing pads, increases blood flow to the surface of the skin as well as removing dry skin and speeding up that all-important cell turnover. Both methods give a glowing, more youthful-looking complexion within weeks.
Editor Trudi Brewer shares her advice on exfoliating with Melanie Holmer on TV3's The Cafe.
Exfoliating 101
1. Can I exfoliate dry skin?
Dry, flaky skin can benefit from exfoliating as long as you are gentle. Avoid using grainy scrubs, instead, opt for chemical exfoliators such as serums loaded with vitamin A (retinol) or AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids). These dissolve the bonds between the dead skin cells and boost moisture levels. If your skin is very dry, exfoliate every third day.
Environ Intensive Revival Masque, $98.
Dubbed by skin experts as a 'facelift in a jar', this is a skin mask and exfoliant all-in-one. The AHAs help to hydrate skin while the asiatic, lactic and mandelic acids reduce the look of fine lines, uneven skin tone and redness.
2. Will exfoliating cause a breakout?
If you have oily, acne-prone skin, steer clear of gritty scrubs as these can aggravate your skin and contribute to breakouts. Use fruit enzymes found in exfoliating face washes or masks. These are packed with glycolic and salicylic acids that dissolve oil build-up and reduce blackheads, while shrinking the size of your pores.
Sand & Sky Australian Pink Clay Flash Perfection Exfoliating Treatment, $60.
Pore refining, thanks to bamboo and macadamia seeds, this treatment also contains AHAs from the Australian Finger Lime and the famous pink clay. These ingredients combine to detox and invigorate a dull complexion. Apply to moist skin, gently massage and leave for five minutes, rinse with cool water.
3. Should you exfoliate sensitive skin?
Grainy, harsh scrubs should be avoided if you have sensitive skin. Choose a cleanser with fruit enzymes and use it once a week. Always remove with cool water and avoid hot face cloths, as heat will aggravate your skin further.
Avène Gentle Exfoliating Gel, $46.
This gel combines the cleansing and nourishing effects of niacinamide (vitamin B3) and sodium salicylate with biodegradable cellulose beads and jojoba wax beads to gently exfoliate sensitive skin without irritating it.
4. Should I exfoliate in the morning or at night?
Anytime is fine, or when your skin feels tight and dry or looks oily and dull. If you're using serums that contain retinol (vitamin A), exfoliate before you go to bed, so the vitamins penetrate your skin more effectively. If you prefer a scrub, use it during your morning shower. Make sure you apply it with a flat hand and massage gently, don't scrub too hard.
Dermalogica Skin Resurfacing Cleanser, $79.
Boosted with lactic acid, this cleanser corrects dullness and accelerates skin cell turnover, while the combination of vitamin E and soothing rose oil helps to calm any irritation.
5. Are exfoliating scrubs bad for the environment?
Always check the label of your scrub to ensure it's free from polyethylene. If you see words such as 'mircrobeads' or 'microplastic polyethylenes', steer clear as these are not biodegradable and are a no-no for our planet. Once you buff your face with mircobeads, they are washed down the drain and pollute our rivers, lakes and oceans, endangering the fish and wildlife who ingest them. Former US president Barack Obama signed the Microbead-Free Waters Act in 2015, banning the use of microbeads in cosmetics in the US. Today most beauty companies opt for biodegradable, natural alternatives such as rice, wax, and bamboo extracts.
Burt's Bees Peach & Willowbark Deep Pore Scrub, $13.
Free from plastic microbeads, this natural, sulphate-free facial cleansing scrub uses finely ground peach stone to gently exfoliate skin. Packed with antioxidants including willow bark (a natural source of salicylic acid), goldenseal extract, ginger and sea algae, it also strengthens and hydrates the skin.