Dark spots can appear on the skin at any age, caused by the sun or the after-effects of acne and hormonal conditions like melasma. However, tranexamic acid has risen as one of the most popular ingredients to help boost skin clarity. Editor Trudi Brewer explains how it works and who can use it.
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Unlike many exfoliating acids like lactic and glycolic, tranexamic acid (TXA) is safe for all skin types and all people; it can even be used during pregnancy. It’s gentle, has anti-inflammatory benefits, and can help reduce the look of those pesky sun spots and acne discolourations. Read on to learn more.
What exactly is tranexamic acid?
For a quick science lesson, dermatologist Dr Claire Chang explains: "Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine. A naturally occurring amino acid (that, by the way) is the building block of proteins. Traditionally, tranexamic acid has been used in medical practice to treat excessive blood loss from major trauma, surgery, postpartum bleeding, and heavy menstruation due to its blood-clotting properties.” With many studies to back up its benefits, TXA has anti-inflammatory and anti-melanin-producing properties when used in skincare.
How does tranexamic acid work?
Dr Chang says the exact mechanisms tranexamic acid employs to reduce pigmentation are unclear. “We all know UV light is the number one public enemy in ageing; UV light jumpstarts melanin production, which causes melasma or dark spots. More specifically, UV light induces activation of plasmin, which increases tyrosinase activity and the production of melanin pigment," she explains. “Studies have found that when TXA is slathered on, it can inhibit UV-induced melanin synthesis by blocking the interaction between keratinocytes (aka skin cells) and melanocytes (aka melanin-producing cells)." Luckily, TXA plays well with other skincare ingredients, too. Dr Chang recommends combining it with other skin brighteners, like topical retinoids, vitamin C, and kojic acid. She suggests working it into your morning and night skincare routines for best results. “Slot it in after toner but before moisturizer - be sure to layer on sunscreen last. Then, stick with it. It may take up to eight to 12 weeks to see improvement." Finally, it’s been found to strengthen the skin’s barrier, which helps protect and prevents water loss. A superhero ingredient if your skin needs brightening, some skincare formulas containing TXA are below.
Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correcting Serum, $174.
Murad’s answer to blurring the look of dark spots and an uneven tone. The blend of tranexamic and glycolic acids gently exfoliates to clear away dull skin cells and help all the skincare you use absorb better and faster. While rice and yeast protein and peptides help firm the skin simultaneously.
This silky, active eye serum is stacked with three different forms of vitamin C: lactic, tranexamic acids, and ceramides. It brightens and firms the delicate skin under and around the eye area and helps reduce puffiness and dark circles.
This liquid is perfect for pore-unclogging treatment. Use a cotton pad to swipe the refreshing yet potent mix of tranexamic and salicylic acids to treat blemishes and post-acne dark spots. Though it contains potent active ingredients, this toner feels cooling and gentle rather than irritating, thanks to the addition of aloe vera extract in its formula.
Ideal for Christmas gifting.