The jury is still out for me when it comes to exfoliating the skin, says Editor Trudi Brewer, who calls in the big guns for some expert advice.
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If clarity and radiance are what you're searching for scrubbing your skin is not necessarily what you will get. According to one of my favourite celebrity dermatologists, Los Angeles based Dr Ava T. Shamban, who is an authority on the subject, "Overdoing exfoliation can happen easily by mixing any range of different physically-based with chemical exfoliants, being too aggressive or using harsh stripping ingredients." Once a week is enough for most skin types (acne-prone skin can benefit from twice a week exfoliation, especially if you wear heavy makeup to cover spots) to prevent pores from getting clogged. Here are the signs you're over-exfoliating and how to break the habit.
Is your skin red and stinging?
That's the sign of inflamed skin and a signal your signal that your skin may need a break. According to Dr Shamban, "Stinging and or redness can be mild warnings that you may be exfoliating too aggressively or too often." Switch to a gentle cleansing cloth instead.
Manicare Erase-It Reusable Makeup Remover, $25
Using warm water only, these magic clothes are perfect for anyone with sensitive, problematic skin. They remove every scrap of makeup, without harsh scrubbing or the need for cleansesrs. Also, better for the planet, they are reusable and machine washable.
Are you getting breakouts?
"Acne flare-ups are also a symptom," says Dr Shamban. "Over-exfoliating puts oil production into overdrive compensation for the stripping. It signals the sebaceous glands to react, which can lead to blemishes and acne breakouts." A soothing, ultra-hydrating skin ist (with aloe) will help calm and control excess oil. If you’re extra sensitive stick to Avene’s Thermal Spring Water, priced from $20.
KORA Organics Minty Mineral Hydration Mist, $65.
Infused with organic aloe vera, aquamarine sea minerals and algae, this spritz of minty freshness cools and clams skin, while adding a moisture boost. Post cleansing or over makeup, we are impressed with this new skin mist, it’s a great soothing pick me up for any skin type.
Is your skin flaking?
If you have an issue applying makeup like dry, flaky patches around the nose, you too may be over-exfoliating. "If this happens, take a break from exfoliation, rehydrate to repair skin barrier with cica-based healing skin-care products.
Avène Cicalfate Repair Cream, $17.
We believe this cream should be in every woman’s beauty arsenal. Why? It’s stacked with skin claiming ingredients copper sulfate, magnesium and Avene’s thermal spring water, that work to repair the skin and reduce the risk of any flare-up. It’s also nourishing and healing and not just stressed-out skin. It can be used on grazes, eczema, or delicate post-procedure skin surgery - and it’s gentle enough for nappy rash. We are never without a tube.
Are you addicted to exfoliating?
Do you love that post exfoliated tight-feeling on the skin, or the smooth-looking glow it gives your complexion? It’s addictive, I agree, but it’s also damaging. "The most you should be exfoliating is twice a week," says Dr Shamban." Don't forget gritty scrubs, fruit-acid infused products and facial-cleansing brushes are all sloughing away the top layer of the skin, so anytime you're using one of those tools or treatments, you're likely are over-exfoliating. Cutting back on your routine will do the trick - simply put, do less," she says.
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque, $26.
Formulated for blemish-prone skin, dull skis, with the blend of vegetable charcoal and oil-absorbing clays with the BHA salicylic acid. Use a small amount on dry skin, avoid the eye area and leave it on for 10 minutes. Then rinse in tepid water; this will leave that feeling of freshly exfoliated skin without sensitivities.
Does it sting when you wash your skin?
If cleansing your skin aggravates it, you may need a clean break from all active products, says Dr Shamban. "Stop all retinol products. Halt on any physical or chemical exfoliants, or acne medication or any benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and other advanced acid-based cleansers," she explains. "Eliminate all products with fragrance and say 'sayonara' to any foaming cleansers for a while or certainly any deep cleaning products with sulfates or SLS." Switch to a gentle cleanser that will not disrupt the skin’s barrier.
Avène Tolérance Extreme Cleansing Lotion, $45
It removes every trace of makeup without stripping the skin of its natural moisture thanks to the softening and claiming ingredients. These include Avène’s thermal spring water, squalane, and coconut oil and glycerin. Use daily with tepid water.
Fruit-acids vs. gritty scrubs
To give skin a fresh start, lay off those gritty scrubs and facial brushes after giving your skin a good, long break: "Use chemical exfoliants (acid-based cleansers), as they can be gentler than physical (gritty scrubs) exfoliation products with textured ingredients to mechanically remove dead skin cells," notes Dr Shamban. "Switch to gentle chemical exfoliants made from fruit enzymes like pineapple and papaya, or light alpha hydroxy acids like lactic acid." Try Pure Fiji
Pure Fiji Coconut Cleanser, $50.
Possibly the holy grail of fruit acid-based cleansers I have used. Not only does it lift every scrap of makeup from your face it gently buffs the surface of the skin with papaya extract, while the coconut, macadamia and moringa oils nourish every inch of your face. And like all Pure Fiji skincare, it smells and feels divine - safe to say I am hooked.