Today fragrance brands embrace technology to entice us, a case in point with Paco's newbie, Phantom. A combination of luxury craftsmanship, neuroscience and algorithms. Editor Trudi Brewer shares a cologne for any gender.
Designed for men and loved by women, that's the goal of any men's scent. Phantom ticks that box. From luxe-y French brand Paco Rabanne this fragrance pays homage to their futuristic runway collections of the 1960s, melded with today's high-tech fragrance making skills. Perfume royalty at the head is Vietnamese perfumer Loc Dong. Responsible for many in the Paco portfolio and some of the most iconic, including C.K. for Calvin Klein and Issey Miakye fragrances. His penchant for extremity is visible in this project using 'augmented creativity' with the help of neuroscience and algorithmic tools to enhance the feel-good factor when you take a whiff. Dong added an overdose of a vintage synthetic molecule (styrallyl acetate), a dry, intense floral scent reminiscent of the gardenia, then layered it with other lively and woody ingredients. Tested on humans, males 18 to 35, the experiment was designed to determine what parts of the brain were activated smelling it; after 45 million brain measures, it excited three emotions sexiness, alertness and energy. So who will want this new fragrance? Dong told the press at the launch. "For me, my principle is very simple: we live in a world where you have to be this or that, masculine or feminine, but to me, if you love it, everyone can wear it."
Paco Rabanne Phantom is available at Life Pharmacy in 50ml $128, and 100ml $182.
“I wondered if Phantom would appeal to my 18-year-old son. I asked him. What do you think? “It’s pretty sick.” I think Paco Rabanne can take that as a win.”
What’s in it?
It's been called a technological innovation in fragrance circles, starting with a common ingredient, an organic, ethically sourced lavender. Dong and his team were able to extract the different elements of the lavender scent. Remove what he didn't want, and then keep the potent aroma to blend with lemon zest, apple, smoke, earthy notes of vetiver, patchouli, and finally creaming vanilla.
The bottle
It's creative. It's also refillable (available here soon), meaning you never need to update your chrome, metal and black, robot statuette. The futuristic design is more than a bottle; Phantom is the first 'connected' fragrance. To activate, tap the top of the bottle on the WiFi symbol with your smartphone, and you will meet your new wingman and enter what the brand calls the 'Phantom Universe'.
Why do we like it?
The concept is a departure away from a human spokesmodel favouring a virtual character in our virtual world. With connection at an all-time low thanks to social distancing, I think the concept of this fragrance could enhance that sense of belonging. The lavender is both feminine and masculine, which appeals to me; it's a scent that evokes comfort and calmness. My 18-year-old son was immediately mesmerised by the bottle and interested in smelling it. He's spoilt for choice with the various fragrances that come across my desk, and he's often impartial. I wondered if Phantom would appeal to him. I asked him. What do you think? "It's pretty sick." I think Paco Rabanne can take that as a win.
The film
Watch the Paco Rabanne sci-fi-inspired Phantom campaign film by award-winning director Antoine Bardou Jacquet, which stars Slovakian model David Trulik and Russian Model Kris Grikaite who have a chance alien encounter on another planet.
Another designer expression of loving our true selves.