Not all fragrance lovers turn their hand to be perfumers, but Bee Shapiro did when she created Ellis Brooklyn. Editor Trudi Brewer shares this clever New Yorkers story.
A fragrance connoisseur, Bee Shapiro spent years writing about beauty trends for the New York Times, but the scent was always her thing. A perfume lover from her teens, she believes fragrance is fascinating. So in 2015, she took a leap of faith and launched a clean fragrance brand called Ellis Brooklyn; the name is a blend of family and home, after her first daughter (Ellis) and her home at the time in Brooklyn, NYC. Shapiro wanted to create memorable, sustainable, toxin-free scents that could be layered together or worn alone. Today the brand has 15 scents, all in stunning simple bottles in different sizes, candles, and home fragrance diffusers. Read on to learn more.
What is a clean fragrance?
For us, clean fragrance is about formulating consciously from start to finish. Safety, of course, is a major priority, but we also consider the fragrance composition's overall sustainability.
You created your first scents with Byredo perfumer Jérôme Epinette. Do you still work with him?
I haven’t worked with Jerome in a while, but I admire his work. I wanted to branch out to a slightly different style. Lately, I’ve been working with Frank Voelkl. He created FLORIST, SUN FRUIT and also APRÈS.
Ellis Brooklyn debuted in 2015; how much has changed in the ingredient space since then?
So much, and definitely, for the better before, there was little transparency about fragrance ingredient sourcing. Now we’re able to have our scents rated by Eco Scent Compass.
Images of Bee Shapiro and her daughters, Ellis and Sky, @beeshapiro and @ellisbrooklyn
Apart from the apparent nasties in fragrances, like parabens and phthalates, many people think synthetic ingredients are harmful too. Is this true?
Many synthetics are very safe, and there are naturals that can be toxic. That’s why we have never been a 100 per cent natural brand.
Is Myth still your favourite scent? If so, why?
MYTH is still my favourite. I have been layering SUN FRUIT with SALT quite a bit as well. To me, they are the scent soundtrack to a perfect vacation.
Ellis Brooklyn MYTH EDP, 10ml, $62, 50ml, $210.
Shapiro’s favourite fragrance in the collection is Myth. She believes, “This scent possesses an almost 'second-skin' element.” Making it sophisticated yet subtle with a star-studded ingredient lineup, including bergamot, ambrette, cassis, orchid, lotus, jasmine, patchouli, musk and cedar. It’s a perfume to surround you with the feeling of warmth.
Image @Instagram
Salt is my fave; how did you come up with the name and the ingredient lineup?
SALT was my take on gourmand. It launched with SWEET, and I wanted to flex the gourmand category to include alternate perspectives of this scent category and different personal tastes in what scent could be. I love taking traditional categories and giving them a fresh perspective.
ELLIS BROOKLYN SALT EDP, 10ml, $62 and 50ml, $210.
Inspired by the soul-healing properties of the ocean, it’s stacked with what you would expect to smell on a tropical island resort. Including ylang-ylang, Tahitian tiare (that smells like gardenia) and magnolia dianica (some say smells like a glass of Champagne). Add the elegant blend of musk and vegan ambergris ( a sweet earthy aroma) with sandalwood to make it unique - and you have an unforgettable summer-like scent that surrounds you in warmth. Finally, it meets global expectations; it’s gender-neutral, can be layered with all the other Ellis Brooklyn scents, and is vegan and certified cruelty-free by PETA.
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“Florals have always been challenging for me. I love them in real life but fragrance? They tend to read powdery and old-fashioned. The new FLORIST is airy, uplifting and bright. The scent is like fresh-cut flowers but with a dash of fruit on top.”
Tell us about your latest scent, Florist, and what inspired you to create it.
Looking at our scent offering, I realised that I had been skirting the ultra-feminine category. Perhaps it was because I was personally not comfortable with it. But raising two little girls has completely changed my viewpoint. First, my girls can play a game of savage ice hockey, and then next, they’re wearing cute dresses with sparkle makeup. We can all be all things. FLORIST is my embrace of femininity.
You would have reviewed hundreds of scents as a beauty writer. Did any brands give you inspiration for Ellis Brooklyn?
I love so many beauty brands, but starting Ellis Brooklyn was about bringing a new perspective to the table. My background is diverse and different from many previous fragrance creators. But also wanted to approach fragrance intimately as someone who wears and layers fragrance and is a true beauty junkie.
FLORIST eau de parfum, 10ml $62, 50ml, $210.
This is Shapiro’s nod to a citrusy, white floral scent. It heroes those heady white tropical blooms, including tuberose, Italian bergamot, gardenia, honeysuckle and jasmine. "I've never been that floral perfume kind of person, yet I love fresh bouquets in the house at all times. That's the intention behind FLORIST— capturing that joyfulness and beauty of fresh blooms,” says Shapiro. Any floral lover will adore this feminine fragrance; you’d be hard-pressed to find someone who doesn’t like it (including me). The moment you spritz it on, it transports you to a garden in springtime.
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With 15 of your scents on offer at Mecca Cosmetica in New Zealand, can you share what you're working on and what we can look forward to seeing next?
We have an exciting scent in the works for later in the year. It’s our love letter to New York.
The latest rosy designer scent.