It’s a physiological phenomenon in the skin: when temperatures drop, our skin dries out. Here, editor Trudi Brewer shares TWEL why it’s a skin dilemma and how you can fix it.
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Dry skin is a winter beauty dilemma that, left untreated, can prematurely age your face. When skin is dry, it develops tiny cracks in the outer layer, damaging the skin barrier and interfering with its ability to retain moisture. According to NYC-based dermatologist, author, and researcher Dr Leslie Baumann, creator of Skin Type Solution, an online quiz and skin-typing system that determines the best skincare for your skin’s needs, “Transepidermal water loss (TWEL) occurs when the skin’s protective barrier is damaged or impaired, allowing excess moisture content to evaporate into the atmosphere. The result is dry, dehydrated, and irritated skin.” So, to understand what causes TEWL, Baumann says it’s good to understand your skin and the layers that are affected better. “The epidermis is the top layer of skin, with four to five sublayers. Beneath is the dermis, primarily collagen, hyaluronic acid, heparan sulfate, other glycosaminoglycans, and elastin. The hypodermis is beneath the dermis and is mostly used for fat storage to keep you warm.” She adds that what we can see in the mirror (in my case, parched, fine lines) is the topmost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC). “The structure of the SC is arranged similarly to a brick wall made up of 15 to 30 layers of cells (the bricks), with intercellular lipids (the mortar) in between. The function of this “brick and mortar” layer of skin is to prevent TEWL, irritants, and allergens from entering. When the skin lacks adequate lipids to create this protective barrier, TEWL can occur. This is when the barrier and protective coating are damaged and transepidermal water loss occurs. As a result, irritants can enter the skin, which can cause a whole host of unwanted conditions, from sensitivities to dehydration, as well as extremes such as eczema and psoriasis. Baumann says the way back from TEWL is not that difficult. The right combination of moisturising ingredients is how to repair a damaged or weakened skin barrier and reduce that transepidermal water loss. “One of the most effective barrier repair ingredients is a lab-created substance called MLE technology. This multi-lamellar emulsion (MLE) technology mimics the lamellar structure of your skin’s natural lipids and, therefore, can strengthen its barrier and reduce TEWL.”
She advises using skin care rich in humectants, occlusives, and emollients. To understand what these ingredients do for the skin, Baumann explains. “Humectants work by drawing moisture from their surrounding environment. Occlusives seal in moisture to your skin and prevent irritants and pathogens from getting inside. Occlusives are often combined with humectants to increase skin hydration. Finally, emollients make the surface of your skin smoother and softer.” Bottom line: “Dry, dehydrated skin is a common problem for women, especially with cooler, drier air and when we move in for the winter.”
The best skincare to use in winter
Moisturiser is rich in humectants, which draw water to the skin, including glycerin and hyaluronic acid. At the same time, occlusives and emollients are instantly pleasing on the skin and include ingredients such as Shea and cocoa butter and plant oils such as argan.
Murad Cellular Hydration Barrier Repair Cream, $169.
The latest moisturiser to join the Murad skincare line is for anyone with dehydrated skin. It's brimming with fatty acids from bilberry omegas and allantoin that immediately nourish a parched complexion. A little goes a long way; it’s so luxurious to use.
TAILOR RESTORE MELATONIN NIGHT BALM, $70.
This night cream is incredible, and here’s why: It’s stacked with occlusives and emollients, like Shea butter, grapeseed, sunflower, and jojoba seed oils. It also includes antioxidants like New Zealand black fern leaf extract and gotu kola leaf extract. The formula also includes plant-based squalane and glycerin. But here’s the kicker: It’s also rich in melatonin (a natural hormone that regulates the body's night, day, and sleep-wake cycles), which supports the skin's natural repair process and helps boost a radiant complexion.
Drunk Elephant Bora Barrier Repair Cream, $122.
This is the thickest, richest cream in the Drunk Elephant line-up. It harnesses the power of six butter lipids to help encourage your natural collagen, lipid, and hyaluronic acid production, while soothing and strengthening the skin barrier. The redness-reducing zinc and copper salt minerals provide antioxidants, while alpha-glucan derived from rice rounds out the formula, offering a boost of hefty hydration.
Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Cream, $66.
If you have mature skin that needs a little boost, this hydrating cream is packed with plumping and brightening ingredients like polyglutamic acid, hyaluronic acid, and plum extract. It’s whipped into a lightweight cream that sinks into the skin fast. If you have combination skin, you will also love this; it contains ice willowherb, an ingredient that helps reduce oil and support the skin microbiome. Expect a dewy-looking glow that lingers long after application.
CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion AM SPF15, $30.
Developed by dermatologists, it promises a protective barrier on the skin's surface, essential for keeping moisture in and irritants out. It uses ‘multivesicular emulsion technology,’ a multi-phase, oil-in-water emulsion that releases moisture throughout the day to help skin retain water. Along with an SPF and three nourishing ceramides, it will hydrate extremely dry skin, ideal if your skin dries out halfway through the day.
SHISEIDO VITAL PERFECTION UPLIFTING AND FIRMING ADVANCED CREAM, 50ML, $195.
This face cream has so many benefits. First, the ingredients. Japanese Safflower red has a stabilising effect on the skin's blood vessel structure. Ginseng root boosts collagen production and strengthens the skin's moisture barrier, while Chinese date extract helps blur dark spots. Finally, caffeine helps brighten the skin. While it’s an investment, it’s so luxuriously hydrating that a little goes a long way, and you can use it both day and night.
Get expert advice here.