Ingredients matter when it comes to skincare. Thanks to innovations, science is fine-tuning natural extracts to bring us benefits that make a difference in how skin looks and feels. One buzz-worthy ingredient to get on your radar is cica. Here’s how it works - by editor Trudi Brewer.
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While you may not have heard of cica, its abilities are lasting and famous. Cica, derived from Centella Asiatica; other names include gotu kola, Asiatic pennywort, or tiger grass, is a leafy, edible herb with healing powers. It has been used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for centuries, supporting brain function, enhancing memory and concentration, and aiding the digestive system. Once in skincare, it soothes issues such as eczema, psoriasis flare-ups, minor burns, and scratches. According to New York-based dermatologist Josh Zeichner, “It has been shown to help calm inflammation through its potent antioxidant content, and it helps enhance wound healing.” Research backs cica’s long-standing use as a multipurpose healer, which is why it’s appearing in many products—and for good reason.
So what are the benefits of cica?
Its healing power is best in skincare like serums, essences, or lotions when left on the skin. Another reason cica is a go-to for chemists is its versatility and compatibility. Sensitive or dry skin, acne-prone and those battling redness will benefit from this ingredient. But it’s the antioxidant benefits that excite Dr Zeichner. "Because of its barrier-repairing abilities, people who have conditions like eczema or rosacea or anyone experiencing reactions from overusing harsh skincare products can also benefit.“
How to find Cica in skincare
Checking the ingredients list on your skincare products (which is always a great idea), you’re unlikely to see the word cica. “Not all cica creams contain Centella Asiatica as an ingredient, even if the product uses the word ‘cica’ in the name.” He says. “Look for ingredient names like madecassoside or asiaticoside, two active compounds derived from the Centella Asiatica plant.” While this herbal powerhouse is not new, it’s now on your radar as a skin-soothing, redness-reducing, moisturising, and collagen-boosting ingredient. That’s a win.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Colour Correcting Treatment, $38.
This green-to-beige tinted cica cream will neutralise the look of redness and skin tone for anyone with redness. Stacked with tiger grass (aka Centella Asiatica or cica), you can apply an extra layer for more coverage in areas of concern, especially the cheeks and nose.
To use: Like a tinted moisturiser, warm a pea-sized amount between your hands, then gently press and blend into the skin; the colour will change from green to beige as you blend.
Boost Lab CicaPlus Repair Serum, $45
This affordable serum was created to soothe redness and repair irritation for those with skin prone to flare-ups. Stacked with plant extracts like Centella Asiatica, it helps strengthen your skin’s barrier, while hyaluronic acid and squalane lock in moisture to prevent dryness. Finally, the pre- and postbiotics with oat extract help balance the skin’s delicate microbiome, reducing an angry-looking complexion for a calm, healthy one.
To use: Apply a few drops to your fingertips, warm the serum, and press it into red and irritated areas of the skin.
Suntegrity Staycation Bronzing Shimmer Serum Drops, $98.
We are big believers in the youth-boosting power of bronze shimmer. This serum helps you hang onto that summer glow in seconds, doubling as skincare. It contains jojoba and sunflower seed oils, honeysuckle flower extract, turmeric, gotu kola (Centella Asiatica), licorice root, and cold-pressed sweet orange oil. The heavenly scent leaves you feeling and your skin looking like you’ve been on a tropical holiday.
To use: Apply one to two drops directly to your skin, or mix with a serum, moisturiser or body lotion.
INSKIN.CO Calm & Soothe – Daily Sheet Mask 30 Sheets, $79.
These clever serum-infused sheet masks are designed for daily use and contain a healing, hydrating blend of plant extracts, vitamins, and antioxidants. First, Centella Asiatica soothes, while rice grain powder brightens the skin. Fish mint and tea tree oil have antibacterial benefits and will calm inflammation. At the same time, a sugar beet extract calms and hydrates - all that in a handy sheet mask you can use at leisure.
To use: On clean, dry skin, smooth the sheet mask onto the face. Leave it on for 20 minutes, and massage the remainder of the serum into the skin; don’t wash off the residue.
The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum, $36.
This serum features Centella Asiatica for its ability to prevent irritation and protect and strengthen the skin’s barrier. The skin is soothed and nourished once blended with vitamin B12 to reduce redness (which also gives this serum its red tint), bisabolol, ceramides, and niacinamide.
To use: A few drops morning and night, this serum slips into any skincare routine to help calm and correct skin quickly.
And how they work?