Retinol is a skincare ingredient that needs no introduction—however, the latest high-tech evolution from the skincare brand Environ does. To learn more about these two new skin-saving boosters, we asked the experts by Editor Trudi Brewer.
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Before we dive deeply into these new skincare innovations, let’s recap on the anti-ageing powerhouse ingredient, vitamin A or retinol. It’s the gold standard for wrinkle erasing, acne management, and reducing the appearance of UV damage. Additionally, it’s a cell-communicating ingredient (as well as a powerful antioxidant) that instructs damaged skin cells exposed to environmental aggressors such as the sun and pollution to repair and make healthier cells. It has also earned the reputation of being a fantastic multitasker. Vitamin A can increase cell turnover, speeding up the skin's natural renewal process, so your complexion looks more precise and smoother, directly impacting how the skin looks and boosting radiance. Retinol and its many derivatives, such as retinoids, retinoic acid, retinaldehyde and retinyl palmitate, to name a few, is an essential nutrient for the skin to help it appear healthier and become more resilient. Dr Des Fernandes, rated amongst the top five plastic surgeons in the world and founder of Environ Skin Care, has spent 40 years researching vitamin A’s impact on skin health, expanding the intricate understanding of what happens to skin biologically and chronologically through life. In the 1980s, he was the first to use this ingredient and antioxidants successfully in a cosmetic product, and it is the cornerstone of the Environ Skin Care philosophy. Fast forward to today, and the latest serum boosters have garnered high praise from beauty insiders, so we asked technical educators Sharon Wilson and Jocelyn Laycock to share how the intensifying serums and add-on boosters optimise the effects of natural retinoic acid on youthful cellular behaviour. Read on to learn more.
Q&A
First, what is retinol, and how does it benefit the skin?
Retinol is a very active form of Vitamin A. It has the smallest molecule and is two steps further along the metabolic pathway to the active form of this vitamin - Sharon Wilson.
Why is vitamin A (in all its forms) the key to a youthful complexion?
Vitamin A is the only molecule that affects a permanent change at a DNA level. It is also the skin normaliser; it normalises cellular function, changing tone and texture. Vitamin A is responsible for nearly all the changes in the skin, stimulates collagen and elastin production, reverses photodamage, and has many more benefits - Wilson.
What is the difference between retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate and retinoic acid?
These are all forms of vitamin A; retinol is the alcohol form, and retinyl palmitate is the oil-ester form of vitamin A, which is stored in the skin as retinyl palmitate. Retinyl propionate is also an oil-ester form of vitamin A, a low, slow, passive form of vitamin A and retinoic acid and is the acid form used only by medical doctors; this is how vitamin A ends up in the cell as retinoic acid and is what effects the change at a DNA level - Wilson.
How are these Environ Retinol boosters add-ons to your skincare routine?
The Tri-Retinol Boosters form part of the Environ’s Algorithm, enhancing cellular micro nutrition and further future-proofing your skin to retain youthful beauty. The new formulations combine retinol plus other retinoid forms to optimise the effects of natural retinoic acid on youthful cellular behaviour. They also contain potent antioxidants, which help diminish oxidative stress's effects, and additional specialised boosters to promote natural moisturising properties and skin barrier resilience - Wilson.
Environ Focus Care Youth+ Retinol Serum, $120.
Vitamin A's benefits improve the look and feel of the skin, promote longevity, and strengthen the skin barrier. This serum combines two forms of retinoids, retinol, and skin-saving antioxidants. Once the skin is comfortable with this retinol serum, you can step up the intensity with Retinol Serum Forte.
Who were these boosters designed for?
Anyone who wants to retain their biological youthfulness and improve problematic skin.
What is the difference between Revinage and NovoRetin?
RevinageTM, an extract of the Bidens Pilose plant, is a stable, plant-based alternative to retinoids. It provides retinol-like behaviour by binding to and increasing expression of the RXR receptor (vitamin A receptors), resulting in retinoid-like, anti-ageing effects, including stimulating the production of the extracellular matrix, resulting in greater skin firmness and wrinkle filling. It also helps regulate key inflammatory mediators responsible for the adverse effects of retinoids, so it lessens any retinoid reactions. It features high stability to photodegradation and oxidation. NovoRetin is a unique plant-based retinol alternative, an aromatic resin from the bark of the Lentisk tree, which grows exclusively on the Greek Island of Chios. NovoRetin increases the amount of naturally occurring retinoic acid by inhibiting the enzyme that degrades retinoic acid in the skin, providing retinol-like effects. This means it is possible to increase the levels of naturally occurring retinoic acid within the skin by inhibiting its degradation. Retinoic acid is responsible for most vitamin A benefits, including reversing DNA damage. NovoRetin is proven to amplify effects by safeguarding the amount of retinoic acid in the skin cell from e natural enzymatic degradation. - Laycock.
If you are new to retinol, where do you start?
Start by introducing Tri-Retinol Serum once you are acclimated to a medium to high level of vitamin A, such as Skin EssentiA AVST 3 or Youth EssentiA CQuence Serum 2 or higher. To decide on the right serum for you, it’s best to discuss this with your professional skincare therapist when progressing to the Forte version - Wilson.
Environ Focus Care Youth+ Retinol Serum Forte 30ml, $151.
This is your step-up serum skin booster that will improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and fine lines while boosting the skin’s firmness and promoting a smoother skin texture.
What results can you expect, and in what time frame?
Clinical trials have proven that results can be seen within four weeks. Once you have progressed to Tri-Retinol Forte, after eight weeks of use, it will bring about smoothing, anti-ageing, and moisturising capabilities, substantiated in statistically significant reductions of surface roughness and significant improvements in skin elasticity and firmness, as well as hydration. The skin keeps improving with an accumulative use of the Tri-Retinol Serums -Laycock.
Can you share how to use the new boosters?
Introduce the Tri-Retinol Serums into your skincare routine by cocktailing one pump with your Environ Vitamin A moisturiser in the evening two to three times per week, intensifying and building up to eventually using every night. Once the mixed application is tolerated, a layered application can be used—apply Tri-Retinol Serum to the full face as a single layer in the evening before moisturising with your regular Environ moisturiser. For advanced treatment, gradually include Environ’s Cosmetic Roll-CITTM before application of your Tri-Retinol Serum and other Environ moisturiser or serum - Laycock.
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