Moisturiser is a staple in most beauty routines, but how you use it influences the results. Enter layering, the perfect practice for the changing season ahead. Editor Trudi Brewer shares options to ensure your skin is well-nourished, balanced and happy.
Image Instagram
Choosing the Right Moisturiser
The first step is finding the perfect moisturiser formula for your skin type and needs. Mix and match moisturisers or layer two when you need extra hydration. However, product texture depends on your skin type and key ingredients to offer targeted results. This proves that not all moisturisers are created equal and for a good reason. "For oily skin, consider a lightweight gel-cream moisturiser that dries quickly without leaving the skin feeling or looking greasy," says dermatologist Dr Connie Yang of PFRANKMD. "For dry skin, look for a thicker moisturising cream that combines humectants and occlusives to draw in moisture and seal it."
Layering 101
To layer or not to layer? That is the question: once you discover how easy it is, your skin will thank you. There are no hard and fast rules; however, if you have dry skin, an added barrier to keep it hydrated is in order, significantly, as the seasons change. Layering may also be helpful if you use active ingredients like retinol. Dr Yang suggests applying a liquid-like nourishing essence or pre-moisturising lotion before retinol and a thicker moisturiser over the top. ”When using any strong active, retinol included, an additional layer of moisturiser can help maintain moisture balance and limit irritation," says Dr Yang. "The rule of thumb when applying any moisturiser is to apply from thinnest to thickest consistency," explains Dr. Yang. "Lighter serums go on before thicker creams to ensure proper penetration; this also applies to moisturisers." For example, use water-based gel formulas before reaching for a thick cream. While this process might remind you of slugging, they are different. "Slugging involves applying a layer of occlusive ointment, like Vaseline, on top of your skincare to increase penetration and absorption while also sealing in moisture and preventing transepidermal water loss,” explains Dr Yang.
Ingredients matter
Hyaluronic Acid
First, hyaluronic acid can be found in everything from serums to creams, and it’s a potent skin hydrator. Layered into your morning or evening routine, it delivers instant hydration, helps with barrier-repair function, and protects your skin against inflammation and sensitivities that, BTW, experts suggest, are responsible for speeding up the ageing process. The best news is that it’s compatible with all skin types, is non-comedogenic, and makes your face look plumper, dewier, and younger - and who doesn’t want that?
Shiseido Essential Energy Hydrating Cream, $92.
This ultra-hydrating moisturiser should come with a warning: It’s delicious. In tiny molecules, Hyaluronic M and L are extracted from lactic acid and super bio hyaluronic acid. They hydrate the skin's surface, absorb quickly, and penetrate deeply. The other star ingredients include Panax ginseng root, citrus peel, rosemary (which stops hyaluronic acid from degrading), and Ichiyakuso flower extract. It’s divine.
Trilogy Hyaluronic Acid+ Water Cream, $50.
The latest offering from certified natural skincare brand Trilogy harnesses the potent power of hyaluronic acid in three molecular weights for a layered approach to hydrating the skin. Add nourishing glycoin ( a skin cell-rejuvenating active ingredient) and the skin barrier support of ceramide three, and the skin is well on its way to feeling plump and hydrated. Use am and pm.
Retinol
Vitamin A in all its forms, including retinol, is still the gold standard for anti-ageing. Depending on your formulation, you can use retinol twice daily, in the morning and evening, but always use an SPF in the morning. Consistent use will yield the best results; also, combining retinol with acids is okay, like AHA’s and BHA’s, so long as the retinol you’re using is gentle enough.
Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream from $54.
Retinol, peptides, and vitamin F deliver everything ageing skin needs to glow. Within a week of regular use, you will see a difference in the fine lines and an improvement in her skin’s texture with fewer breakouts. Over time, pigmentation will be less noticeable. While it speeds up the skin cell turnover to promote better-looking skin, it’s super hydrating. The creamy texture is lightweight and absorbs quickly, technically a “gentle” formula.
To use: Apply a pea-sized amount to a clean, dry face. Limit use to one to two times per week at first and gradually increase the frequency as your skin tolerates the retinol. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Elizabeth Arden Retinol + HPR Ceramide Capsules Rapid Skin Renewing Serum, 30’s $95.
The HPR is a new retinoid generation that is ten times more potent than pure retinol but way more gentle. Skin lacking vitality and radiance will benefit from twice the power but with twice the care, which means this serum can be tolerated by all skin types, even sensitive ones. The texture is divine and has brilliant, positive ageing benefits without the irritation or redness associated with vitamin A derivative. This silky gel-like serum firms the skin reduces dark spots and pores and improves clarity, tone and texture - in just one week.
To use: Twist the capsule, squeeze out the serum and apply to face and neck day and night.
Niacinamide
Ask any skincare expert to nominate the ingredients that will guarantee selfie-perfect-looking skin, and niacinamide - or vitamin B3, is right up there. In the spotlight for all the right reasons, the skin-loving benefits of this vitamin are endless. First, it strengthens the lipid barrier or the outside layer of your skin that thins with age. Niacinamide boosts the naturally occurring ceramides or lipids that help form the skin's barrier and help the skin retain moisture. It’s a potent anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant, and it helps minimise breakouts and soothe sensitivities.
AVÈNE HYALURON ACTIV B3 RENEWAL FIRMING CREAM, $80.
All 92 per cent of naturally derived ingredients are whipped into a base of Avéne’s thermal spring water. What struck me about this cream was how light and fluffy it looks and feels, yet how rich and nourishing it is once on the skin. It is stacked with two weights of hyaluronic acid (HA) and a whopping six per cent niacinamide, making it an excellent base for your SPF and makeup. Also, the glass jar is recyclable. The brand promises results in two weeks.
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturiser, from $38.
Hardworking and approved by dermatologists, as well as ceramide-three, niacinamide, and glycerin in a base of La Roche-Posay’s prebiotic thermal water. This cream not only repairs the protective barrier on the skin, but the prebiotic action from the thermal water protects the skin’s delicate microbiome, which is responsible for keeping moisture in and irritants out. Ideal for all skin types, including sensitive. Use day and night.
Here are the do’s and don'ts.