Refining your complexion has never been easier with retinol-infused skincare. However, for those with sensitive, reactive skin, it has its downsides. The latest less-irritating, natural alternative to retinol, known as bakuchiol, is about to blow up the skincare world. Editor Trudi Brewer explains.
Vitamin A and its derivatives, or most commonly known as retinol, are the gold standard in age reversal. Although a helpful tool for tackling fine lines and dark spots on any complexion, it can also come with unfortunate side effects like redness and dryness, especially for those with sensitive skin. If you've struggled to get past the retinol-induced irritation, bakuchiol (buh-koo-chee-all), dubbed 'nature's retinol', is a plant-based ingredient that the beauty industry is using more and more in anti-ageing skincare. Here's why.
WHAT IS Bakuchiol?
A plant extract derived from the Psoralea Corylifolia plant, or 'babchi' plant, is used in Indian and Chinese traditional medicine. It offers the same skin renewal benefits as vitamin A or retinol but without those sensitising side effects.
WHY IS IT GOOD FOR THE SKIN?
Bakuchiol functions similarly to retinol, increasing the natural skin cell turnover, and stimulating your natural collagen production while reducing the signs of ageing such as fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity, and sun damage like brown spots. Bakuchiol is also an antioxidant with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, in fact, a recent study published in the British Journal of Dermatology found that bakuchiol works like retinol (vitamin A) for addressing those signs of ageing, reducing breakouts and acne scarring, but it’s less irritating. And more good news, unlike retinol that is best applied at night, bakuchiol-infused skincare can be used morning and night, because it won't cause the same photosensitivity.
IS Bakuchiol VEGAN?
Bonus, it is. A vegan alternative to retinoids, as some forms of retinol and vitamin A derivatives come from animal products.
WHO SHOULD USE Bakuchiol?
Because bakuchiol functions in the same way as retinol, increasing cell turnover (thereby stimulating collagen production), anyone with fine lines or an uneven skin texture, dry skin or acned scarred skin will reap the benefits of this ingredient. It's also ideal for those with sensitive skin who want skin clarity without irritation.
Here is the bakuchiol infused skincare we rate:
Paula's Choice Clinical 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment, $78.
The blend of 0.3 per cent retinol and a decent dose of 2 per cent bakuchiol,] well above the recommended 0.5 per cent or dose, another benefit of bakuchiol is that it’s one of a few ingredients that can stabilise retinol, allowing it to work more effectively and for longer, even at lower concentrations.
To use: Add this serum to your routine slowly, and gradually. increase to daily at night. Apply to the face and neck, avoiding the eyes, eyelids and lips. Follow with moisturiser. and during the day, always apply sunscreen over the top.
Goop Goopgenes All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil, $157.
Boosted with nine nutrient-dense oils including bakuchiol, Brizialn Cacay nut oil, which is rich in both vitamin A and E (and touted as the new 'miracle' oil in skincare) is blended with amla oil, rich in vitamin C plus extracts like Schisandra fruit and squalane. The lightweight texture, of this heavy-hitting formula, will smooth the look of fine lines and give your skin a hydrated-looking glow.
To use: Apply two to four drops over your face, neck and décolletage, twice daily.
This Works My Wrinkles Tired Eyes, $101.
Exclusively for the thin skin around the eye area, this evening ritual is stacked with an advanced retinol complex, bakuchiol and hyaluronic acid. Together they will brighten, and smooth the look of tired eyes. While a dash of lavender calms the skin and helps you get a good night's sleep.
To use: Massage on and around the eye contour area before bed.
Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides, $112.
While bakuchiol is excellent on its own, according to Medik8’s director of research, Daniel Isaacs, it’s even better with ingredients like peptides. This serum is packed with a blend of skin-brightening peptides (proteins), bakuchiol and Inka omega oil which is rich in omegas 3, 6 and 9. It soaks in quickly, leaving skin glowing, and together they help blur the look of pigmentation.
To use: This bakuchiol-infused serum works best with a vitamin C serum and your SPF in the morning for a complete skincare routine.
PCA SKIN Intensive Clarity Treatment, $168.
If you are prone to breakouts, this overnight treatment will help clear your complexion with a potent cocktail of two per cent salicylic acid, retinol, niacinamide (vitamin B5), bakuchiol and lilac leaf to curb blemishes, blackheads and congestion.
To use: Introduce this treatment product slowly into your skincare regime twice weekly before increasing the application over a few weeks.
TAILOR ILLUME YOUTH ELIXIR, $59.
If you’re struggling with pimples and wrinkles, this 100 per cent natural facial oil will help. Stacked with bakuchiol, hemp seed oil, linoleic acid and a raft of skin-nourishing plant oils including olive, meadowfoam seed, and jojoba, it increases cell turnover, visibly plumping and refining the skin while keeping breakouts at bay - oh and the blend of frankincense and jasmine oils.
To use: Daily, at night after a serum or in place of night cream. Illume lasts around eight weeks.
The latest skin-changing innovation.