The sunscreen debate

Regardless of age, sunscreen should feature in your skin-care routine every day, 365 days a year. It’s the only skincare product that can prevent skin ageing and maintain optimal skin health. But unfortunately, many sunscreens don't cut it when meeting their SPF claims, says editor Trudi Brewer. Read on to learn about a new law designed to protect you.

 

Image LIZ DESOUSA

 

Today sunscreen needs to deliver, and that is about to be enforced. Earlier this year, the government announced a new Sunscreen Product Safety Standard Bill, which comes into force this month, October 2022. It requires all sunscreens above SPF 15 to meet the sunscreen product safety standards for them to be sold in Australia and New Zealand. To ensure this, The Fair Trading Act will enforce those regulations, and beauty brands will risk a hefty fine if they have misrepresented a product's claims on the label. Until now, there have been no guidelines other than expert claims on how to protect the skin under our harsh New Zealand sun. A timely reminder of how essential it is to research your SPF purchases. Melanoma is the third most common cancer in New Zealand, with over 6,000 people diagnosed yearly; check out why early detection is critical here. Consumer NZ wants to strengthen the current law with cosmetic claims and a testing criterion. Consumer NZ chief executive Jon Duffy said this is good news for consumers. "Until now, the sunscreen standard has only been voluntary in New Zealand, and it was possible to sell a sunscreen that hadn't undergone any efficacy testing," Duffy says. Consumer NZ, in support of the bill, believes regulating sunscreens under the Fair Trading Act should only be an interim measure. He wants sunscreens regulated as a therapeutic product (not a cosmetic), bringing New Zealand in line with Australia. Duffy said complying with the standard isn't enough. "Sunscreens need to be tested regularly to ensure different batches provide the claimed protection, which the standard doesn't require. Consumer NZ has been testing sunscreens for years and finds companies sometimes rely on several years old tests to support their label claims."

The sunscreen rule dermatologists want you to follow

The first rule of being safe under the sun is finding a sunscreen you like, considering the texture, smell and feel, and how it looks without or under makeup - if you like the sunscreen you buy, you will use it. The rule dermatologist wants you to follow is to apply 28 grams, or one ounce - enough to fill a shot glass, to the exposed areas of the body, which, let’s face it, who does that? So don’t rely on sunscreen alone when you are out in the sun. Always have a shirt, hat, and sunglasses to cover up. Finally, when it comes to your face, apply from the centre of the face outward in the same way you apply foundation. Then blend outwards into the hairline, so you don’t miss any spots for the face aim to apply a 50-cent piece size blob before you head out the door each day.

Here are the screens that live up to their claims

 

Environ RAD Shield Mineral Sunscreen SPF15, $97.

This lightweight, transparent mineral sunscreen is boosted with potent physical UV reflectors, including zinc and titanium dioxide. It’s also laden with antioxidants, including colourless carotenoids and vitamins C and E C, further helping to mop up those free radicals and prevent them from damaging your complexion. And before you ask, is an SPF of 15 high enough? The answer is yes; according to Environ’s founder and renowned plastic surgeon, Dr Des Fernandes, the higher the SPF, the higher the concentration of potentially harmful chemicals. Backed by scientists who believe a greater concentration of sunscreen agents can turn into free radicals with UV rays and give you a false sense of security, where you think SPF 50 and beyond means you can spend longer in the sun without reapplying. Back to this screen, I love the texture; it’s creamy yet light enough to wear under makeup. It’s also gentle enough for all skin types and ages, including six-month-old babies.

 

AVÈNE SUNSCREEN EMULSION SPF 50+, $35.

This tube of goodness offers the essentials you need from sunscreen for the face. It's broad-spectrum, which means it protects your skin from UVA (ageing rays) and UVB (burning rays) and is photostable (won’t degrade in the sun), both crucial. Water-resistant, it’s designed for the most sensitive skin, thanks to a patented 'SunSitive' protection, with fewer chemical filters to prevent breakouts and skin flare-ups. The formula is boosted with vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant that works as a backup to your SPF and sits in a base, (like all Avène skincare), thermal spring water; it helps counteract the free radical damage most of us are exposed to daily. Next, let's get to the texture and smell; it's non-greasy, not sticky, and leaves a slight matte dry-to-touch finish a great base for makeup. Finally, the light citrus floral scent reminds me of a summer holiday in France.

 

EltaMD UV Daily Broad-Spectrum SPF 40, $78.

A full mineral-based, transparent zinc oxide, making it less irritating and ideal for sensitive and mature skin without leaving that white cast. It’s also stacked with hyaluronic acid, so it plays nice under makeup, and if your skin is dry, it will help nourish it while it protects. This is one sunscreen that is fragrance, paraben and sensitivity-free; the brand says this is where serious UV protection and superior hydration join forces, and we agree.

 

Mecca Cosmetica
To Save Face SPF50+ Brightening Sun Serum, $53.

We are smitten with this new serum-like sunscreen. Not only for the brightening veil it leaves on the skin but for the lineup of active sunscreen. All Australian-approved, the UV screens in this product block ageing UVA and burning UVB rays by absorbing that damaging UV radiation. Blended with these heavyweight broad-spectrum screens is vitamin B3 (niacinamide) helps hydrate and strengthen the skin smoothing fine lines and boosting radiance and hydration. At the same time, liquorice root works to brighten the skin. This sunscreen won't just protect your precious skin from UV damage but will also improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

 

Skinnies SPF30 Tinted Medium Tint, $50.

 This is a dream screen. It not only offers a four-in-one summer solution, you only need to use a pea-size blob. It’s also tinted, and luxuriously hydrating while offering broad-spectrum UV protection. The clever concentration of chemical and physical UV filters in Organogel is a unique waterless delivery mechanism. When you apply it, it leaves a layer over the skin like a shield from those damaging UV rays, with this technology you can go out into the sun in a matter of minutes. On the skin, this tint adapts to all skin tones, plus no white or sticky feeling. It’s reef safe, vegan, gluten-free, and contains no parabens, preservatives, or alcohol. The tubes are 100% recyclable sugar. It’s infused with vitamin E. Comes in three shades bronze, medium pictured here and light.

 

Airyday Dreamscreen Clear As Day SPF50, $55.

The latest sunscreen to land on our desks (it launched October 22) was made by a woman who got skin cancer at 36. She wanted a sunscreen that worked and was pleasing to apply. What she came up with is gorgeous. A TGA-approved formula offers UVA and UVB protection with sunscreen ingredients that absorb UV rays. It’s weightless and invisible. It feels like a gel primer when you apply it. It’s loaded with hyaluronic acid, built-in blue light protection and vitamins C, E and F.
Finally, the fresh watermelon scent reminds us of a summery cocktail - we think it’s got a bright future.