Anti-ageing is a phrase bandied around, especially in marketing skincare and cosmetics. But we’re not fond of it or the sea of skincare claims it promises. So what can you achieve, and what does your skin need as you age? Editor Trudi Brewer shares a dermatologist's expert advice.
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Designed to prevent the appearance of getting older, anti-ageing is an oxymoron. We are all going to age inevitably. Dermatologist May Hall of Jennie Stuart Health Aesthetic Dermatology shares what to expect from a tailor-made anti-ageing regimen. Here's the real deal on mature skincare.
What Does Anti-Ageing Mean to a Dermatologist?
The term anti-ageing is awash with marketing language, just vague enough to inspire our hopes to look better, firmer, and younger. Dr. Hall is no stranger to these expectations. "I think anti-ageing has become a rather pervasive term in our society. Patients have this idea that anti-ageing means they'll look 20 again or like a version of themselves that they're not." So, to clarify those unrealistic expectations and what results, a dermatologist can help reach your skin goals at any age; Hall shares her advice. "My goal is to educate patients on the ageing process and provide them with a long-term plan and regimen they love. Impactful, subtle changes can help you look and feel more confident," says Hall. "To me, a good result is when others can't detect that you've had anything done, but they assume you've had a good night's rest." In this way, anti-ageing stems from a strong foundation of skin care and then adding treatments and procedures based on your skin's needs. As you might expect, the results won't happen overnight; the cumulative power of tailored skincare and treatments will help you look and feel your best. "Anti-ageing is not a sprint; it's more of a marathon," Dr. Hall says.
Where to Start with Anti-Ageing Skin Care
Tailor-made skincare is the best way to treat your complexion, not what's on trend. "I use a 360º approach to skin health, and the foundation of that is a customised skincare routine because when investing money in injectables, chemical peels, lasers or microneedling, it's important to protect that investment with a solid skincare routine." While you can add countless products and a million steps to your routine, keeping the basics at the front of your mind is essential, says Hall. "A vitamin C serum or cream, a topical retinoid, (vitamin A) a moisturiser and SPF make up a solid skincare regime. After that, we set the goals for skin texture, including wrinkles and volume loss, with a multi-modality approach. It's important to note that this process takes time, so neither you or your skin is overwhelmed."We start with consistent, spaced-out treatments," says. Hall. "But once we reach our goal, we can maintain your results once or twice a year."
Anti-Aging Skin Care for Mature Skin
These days, you're encouraged to start anti-ageing skincare around your 20s, when your collagen production levels first begin to drop. If you're trying to turn back the clock rather than prevent it from ticking in the first place, you may have a long road ahead of you. The good news is that you can still get results from anti-ageing skincare when you start later in the game. "I always want to start with a foundational routine, so depending on what you already have on rotation, I think there are some things you should invest your money in when you have mature skin," Dr Hall explains. "If you're dealing with tired or dull-looking skin, you should have a vitamin C product that you use in the morning and a retinol product at night to give the skin an overall more youthful appearance that will also help build collagen over time."
NEW ANTI-AGEING SKINCARE
Not everyone has the means or access to a dermatologist, but want skincare designed to improve the look and feel of their skin. So here our editor shares the latest innovations for ageing skin, avaiulabe at cosmetic counters or online.
Kora Organics Plant Stem Cell Retinol Alternative Moisturizer, $107.
CLINIQUE Smart Clinical Repair Lifting Face + Neck Cream, $160.
This de-ageing skincare line has a new face and neck firming option. Stacked with protein peptides to boost your natural collagen stores, hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil, and shea butter, it visibly smooths fine, dry lines and helps give your skin back it’s glow.
The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum, $36.
The latest clever serum from The Ordinary targets irritated skin; this serum helps repair and boosts skin hydration with key plant-based, active ingredients, including vitamin B12, soothing gallic acid, bisabolol, plant ceramides, niacinamide, and gotu kola. Bright pink in colour, it sinks into the skin quickly without leaving any stain on the skin.
Pure Fiji Hyaluronic B Hydration Booster, $69.
This new serum has eight forms of hyaluronic acid, varying in weight, to plump the skin deep down and on the surface. Your skin will drink this, along with Ngi grass and plant collagen. Use morning and night and expect your skin to feel firm, tight and hydrated.
SolarCareB3 Super B3 Serum, $90.
This brand is all about sun protection; this serum reverses sun damage. A potent and versatile addition to any routine, it’s formulated with vitamin B3 (niacinamide) at 10 per cent that moisture magnet hyaluronic acid and an antioxidant enzyme (to help mitigate those free radicals), called superoxide dismutase. Apply day and night to your face, neck, decolletage and the back of your hands.
Ideal for Christmas gifting.