Regarding hair, certain concerns aren’t always rooted in the truth. With all the information and opinions circulating online, it’s often hard to decipher what’s true and never going to work. According to the experts, editor Trudi Brewer shares the most common hair myths and facts to maintain your best hair possible.
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FACT: LEMON JUICE LIGHTENS HAIR IN THE SUN
According to colourist and #mydentity brand founder Guy Tang, lemon juice changes hair colour due to a reaction with citric acid and UV light. “The sun will always affect the tone of the hair, but it is magnified with lemon juice due to the high acidity level,” he explains, noting that lemons have a pH of two and your natural hair’s pH is between three and four, so it can alter its colour since it’s close to your hair’s pH. But Tang recommends rinsing the lemon juice out of your hair when it’s dry. “Your hair cuticle is highly contracted and becomes dry and brittle with it in,” he explains. “It is as if the hair cuticle is being suffocated by the combination of lemon juice and the sun.” He also warns that since the lift in colour was created with a reaction to UV light, it will get brassier and brassier as time passes. “The only way to counteract this is to tone the hair with a colour that is the opposite of your underlying pigment on the colour wheel,” he says. “For example, yellow needs purple to neutralise the brassy tone.” A purple toning shampoo is always a blonde BFF.
SUN BUM BLONDE HAIR LIGHTENER, $26.
Or you can use a formula that gives hair a sun-kissed look without becoming brassy and feeling parched. This UV-activated spray contains naturally derived ingredients like Costa Rican pineapple and Meyer lemon. Add a little hydrogen peroxide into the mix for an extra boost of hair-lightening power, and this is a fail-proof alternative to straight lemon juice.
Myth: Sweaty Hair is Dirty Hair
One of the biggest hair myths you must ignore is that sweat is dirt. Master stylist and colourist Paul Labrecque. “Sweat is only water. It comes from the head’s pores for various reasons like humidity or working out. In the summer especially, you can have freshly washed hair, go outside on a humid day and, voila, you’re sweating. When this happens, it does not mean you run back home to re-shampoo. Instead, you should get into a place with cool air and dry off.”
Klorane Oat Milk Dry Shampoo, $16.
However, if you like that feeling of freshly washed hair, then dry shampoo is your BFF. Suitable for all hair types, this ultra-gentle, plant-based formula uses starch and silica to tackle oil and odours, while organically harvested oat milk soothes the scalp. The fine powder soaks up oil from the roots but won’t leave hair feeling dry or chalky. There’s also a tinted version of the Klorane Oat Milk Natural Tint Dry Shampoo for Brown to Dark Brown Hair to cover greys simultaneously.
Myth: Wearing a hat causes hair to shed
According to celebrity stylist Richard Marin, this rumour couldn't be further from the truth. "Wearing a hat protects hair from direct sunlight, which can cause hair to become dry and sun-faded over time, especially if the hair is coloured or chemically treated." However, one ‘myth’ that is true is that of a condition known as traction alopecia. “This is where repeated use of tight hairstyles can cause pulling of the hair follicle and eventually lead to hair follicular death. The most common hairstyles that cause traction alopecia are very tight ponytails or braids,” says plastic surgeon and hair restoration specialist Jeffrey Wise, MD.
MYTH: Rinsing Hair With Cold Water Boosts Shine
“This is a complete myth; I thought it helped seal the hair cuticle for years, giving it better shine and gloss. However, cold water stops blood flowing freely, stopping vital hair growth ingredients from getting to the scalp,” says an international session stylist, Syd Hayes.
UMBERTO GIANNINI REPAIR JUICE CONDITIONING WATER, $25.
Conditioning water is a thing, and this brand has nailed it. Designed to boost shine and the condition of the hair with green tea, pro-vitamin B5 and camellia extract. Repair juice seals in hair cuticles after shampooing, instantly adding that vibrant shine we crave.
To Use: After rinsing the shampoo, apply Repair Juice to the hair lengths and ends, lather to activate the conditioning agents and distribute, then rinse.
A formula for Mirror Shine, Super Smooth and Instant Repair is pictured here.
MYTH: Hair Loss comes from Your Mother's genes
"One of the biggest hair myths I've heard during all my years in the industry is that your mother's father influences your hair loss," says celebrity stylist Jordan Blackmore. "That is completely untrue. The genealogy of your hair comes half from your mother and half from your father."
Myth: You Shouldn’t Shampoo Your Hair If It’s Feeling Dry
“Even if you have dry ends and strands, your scalp will remain active and produce oil,” Labrecque explains. “Make sure you continue to shampoo instead of layering on dry shampoo, as your hair still needs to be cleaned and, often, dry shampoo can build up on the scalp, blocking hair follicles,” Labrecque suggests using a gentle shampoo formula and a nourishing conditioner on your ends to reduce dryness. “Wash your hair at least once a week, concentrate the massage of the shampoo on your scalp where you’ll find natural oils, and then rinse. This combination keeps hair at its healthiest.”
Klorane Soothing Shampoo Organic Peony, $26.
We are super excited that the range of Klorane Shampoos and Conditioners has finally landed in NZ, and if you have a sensitive scalp, the news is even better. The peony extract in this shampoo has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries for its anti-inflammatory benefits. So, no more itchy scalp from this biodegradable formula, and the bottle is 100 per cent recyclable.
MYTH: The more conditioner you apply, the better
"You only need to coat your strands," says Vernon François, celebrity hairstylist. Over-saturating it can weigh hair down. He suggests a spray conditioner for managing this. Overloading your hair with conditioner can minimise the bounce, movement, and shape of your curls," explains François.
Moroccanoil All In One Leave-In Conditioner, $62.
Not only does this lightweight spray-in conditioner protect the hair against splitting and dryness, but it’s also a great heat protector. Formulated with an antioxidant-rich superfood blend of argan oil, amino acids (protein) and sugars, it’s known in hair circles as an anti-dehydration shield.
Fact: The Sun Can Burn Your Hair
“It absolutely can. Like our skin, we need sun protection on the hair and scalp to keep UV damage at bay. The sun can damage hair and dull your colour as it overprocesses (oxidises) the tones, causing highlighted hair to go brassy and frazzled. Investing in the right products is worth it to lock in this protection.” Says Syd Hayes.
PUREOLOGY STYLE + PROTECT SHINE BRIGHT TAMING SERUM, $48.
A multi-benefit styling serum that is stacked with seed and fruit oils, including camelina, sunflower, coriander, and citrus vitamin E, as well as a vital UVA and UVB sunscreen. This frizz-taming serum gives brilliant shine while protecting your hair colour at the same time.
Myth: Flakes from Your Hair Means You Have Dandruff
“So many times, I hear clients say things like ‘My head is flaky—I am diseased!’ This is simply false,” Labrecque assures. “While flakes on the scalp can indicate dandruff or other scalp conditions, you’ll more than likely see and find flakes when you’re not properly rinsing your hair or if you sweat a lot and that moisture is sitting on your scalp and strands. Don’t fret: Drying your head after sweating and a good, thorough rinse is the best cure for flakes.”
Moroccanoil Dry Scalp Treatment, $51.
For sensitive, dry and flaky scalps, the antioxidant-rich argan oil, lavender and geranium essential oils help nourish and soothe irritated skin. The addition of salicylic acid gently exfoliates the skin on the scalp to help reduce those annoying flakes.
FACT: Silicones aren’t that bad for your hair
“They’re not great either,” says celebrity stylist Larry King. Originally, they were added to hair products to increase shine, but silicones can build up on your hair shaft over time and become difficult to remove. The result is dull-looking hair. Most silicones are derived from plastic, so they stop any natural oils from penetrating your strands.” Also, silicones aren’t good for the environment, so opt for naturally derived styling formulations where possible.
LUst Haircare STYLERS SLICK STICK, $25.
This clever new frizz-calming mascara-like brush is the latest wonder wand to hit our desks. Stacked with hyaluronic acid and aloe vera, once combed through those fizz strands, it instantly smoothes without leaving a greasy trail. It’s also free from all the nasties, including silicones.
FACT: Bleaching that hair Helps it Appear Fuller
“This is true. Any colour that ‘lightens’ hair will give the illusion of fullness because it makes hair a bit more ‘wirey’. However, taking hair darker will tend to make it softer by comparison. There have been occasions in my salon where our colourists will bleach a very fine, limp fringe and recolour to its natural shade to add body,” says Larry King.
Myth: Regular hair trims will make your hair grow faster
Regardless of how talented your stylist is, regular trims won’t speed up the growing process! Cutting the ends of your hair doesn't affect the follicles in your scalp, which determine how fast and how much your hair grows, says Paradi Mirmirani, MD, professor of dermatology. “Hair grows an average of a quarter-inch every month, whether or not you cut it. "Regular trims might make your hair look a little longer, though.” However, getting rid of split ends reduces hair breakage, which makes hair look thinner at the ends (and shorter),” says hairstylist Matt Fugate. Who adds, “Every eight to 12 weeks, ask your stylist to take off the minimum necessary to eliminate split ends.”
How to save your hair from the sun, surf and sand.