There's lots of chat about the skin barrier right now, but what does this mean, and what happens if you overload yours? Editor Trudi Brewer explains and shares a simple solution to correct it at home.
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What is the skin barrier?
The skin’s barrier is the utmost layer you can see. It protects the deeper layers of the skin or epidermis below. In dermatologist-speak, it's called the stratum corneum or acid mantle, which prevents the skin from moisture loss, referred to as trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). So with the technical stuff out of the way, the skin barrier is often described as a brick wall. According to Michael J Cork, professor of dermatology at The University of Sheffield. “The bricks are skin cells, and the mortar is the lipid lamellae surrounding those cells.” He believes, “A healthy skin barrier is like a strong brick wall with no holes or damage to bricks and mortar; a damaged skin barrier forms cracks, allowing irritants and moisture to get out.”
How is it damaged?
First up, the skin’s barrier needs a balance of moisture and oil. This includes humectants (ingredients that draw water to the skin), emollients and occlusives (moisturising ingredients that cover the skin with a protective film to trap moisture). Without that care, your skin will likely be dry, dehydrated, and easily irritated. Add stress and pollution from city living, the sun and blue light exposure, and suddenly, skin feels tight. It is then that it’s more easily irritated when flakiness, redness, dullness and dehydration occur.
How do we prevent this damage?
Using harsh soaps, overusing active skincare, or over-exfoliating all contribute to this. While there is no one-size-fits-all approach to a quick barrier fix, it needs a gentle skincare routine to get that barrier back on track. Over the last 20 years, research has shown that an impaired barrier often leads to sensitive skin. So, look out for skincare with specific ingredients that mimic the natural lipids found in your skin. Ceramides, essential fatty acids and omegas are all vital for healthy skin. But, most importantly, avoid hot water when cleansing; this melts away those natural lipids (your skin’s natural oils) that protect against moisture loss.
Here’s a gentle solution to repair and nourish the skin’s barrier
Avène XeraCalm AD Lipid-Replenishing Cleansing Oil, $42.
Possibly the most gentle cleanser we have used. The clever I-Modulia® complex took 12 years of scientific development to quickly reduce itching skin and soothe redness and dryness. Stacked with Cer-Omega lipids like those found in the skin, nourish and strengthen that protective barrier while effectively removing makeup and grime.
Avène XeraCalm A.D. Lipid-Replenishing Cream, $46.
Fragrance-free, this face-and-body cream is a saviour for anyone with insanely dry skin or atopic dermatitis (a brutal skin condition that causes itchy, flaky, inconsolable skin). It contains I-Modulia® (the brand's patented complex), Cer-Omega, and glycerin instantly hydrate. These ingredients inhibit the activity of a gene that kick-starts the inflammation process, preventing skin cells from reacting to proteins that lead to itching. How? How? It stimulates the skin's defences and fights against aggressions, reducing dryness and restoring the skin barrier. The brilliant Sterile Cosmetic Technology® (airtight pump) keeps it fresh for the life of this cream. Apply on the face and body after each shower daily. There is also a XeraCalm AD Lipid Replenishing Balm, $46, in a slightly richer texture.
Avène Thermal Spring Water, from $21,
Unspoiled, yet on the world map, this pure water slips into any skincare routine and will instantly soothe sensitive, itching skin. It is also the base of all the Avène skincare. It is 100 per cent natural and calming H20 that alleviates every skin concern. It’s also the lifeblood of Avène’s Hydrotherapy Center, where it’s the water alone (bathing and cool compressing) that people with severe skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis travel to Avène for its soothing qualities. Use this water after cleansing or whenever the skin feels dehydrated during the day.
The latest skin-changing innovation.